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EDUCATHG THE HORSE 




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FRANK M. REED, PUBLISHER. 



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EDUCATOG THE HORSE. 



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^ !•— *^ C THIS BOOK 18 

O 1 ^ '^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by 
H^ ^ jj FRANK M. REED, --x 

* In the OflBce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C 



THE HORSE 



The animal creation is said to represent the extremes and modifica- 
tions of man's nature ; the domestic animals his moral nature, and the 
wild animals the lower or animal part. The horse unquestionably stands 
at the head of the domestic animals, possessing not only the closest 
relation of character, but is by far the noblest and most valuable of all 
the domestic animals ; and a knowledge of the principles ofhis success- 
ful education and government is not only one of the most interesting, 
but important qualifications of a practical education. 

Every relation of hfe is so dependent upon the use of horses, and their 
value and safety is so much regulated by their good character and the 
ease with which they are made obedient to control, that the considera- 
tions of botfi happiness and success make it necessary that their 
education and government should be dictated by reason and humanity. 
Common experience teaches how great an effect good or bad treatment 
has in the influence of character upon man and woman. Ignorance and 
vice beget coarseness and viciousness, while gentle, intelligent, moral 
training develops the opposite — intelligence and the nobility of charac- 
ter ; the reason or understanding being the medium through which the 
action of the difierent parts of the nature are made subordinate to the 
will, when skillfully and wisely acted upon ; but when from ignorance or 
imprudence, they are excited and roused into resistance, the mind, ever 
understanding the intention, is neutralized and subverted in its action, 
and hostility exciting the animal's nature becomes developed, resulting 
in more or less of the vices common to life. 

The inability of the horse to comprehend language, in conjunction 
with the low order of his understanding and his extreme strength, makes 
him more liable to become both vicious and uncontrollable. Unable to 
comprehend the object of restraint, confused and excited by bad treat- 
ment, he is prompted to get away at all hazards. 

The colt is usually driven from the field, haltered by main force, after 
which he is harnessed and hitched by the side of a gentle horse; is 



Q THE HORSE. 

frightened and irritated perliaps to madness. He strives to go ahead, 
and, being too quick for tlie older horse, is jerlied back by tlie bit. He 
thinks he'cannoD go ahead, and is afraid to do so ; and not understand- 
ing tlie meaning of tlie bit, harness or horse talk, when told to go he 
do'es not obey. He is now shouted at and bealen because he does not 
cro when commanded. He may make another more desperate plunge to 
go forward, becomes regardless of the bit and runs away, or is stopped 
after being exhausted from fright and exertion, and is made a nervous, 
impulsive, unreliable brute ; or he may rear up, throw himself down, 
and become stubborn and baulky. Colts of a moderate disposition, if 
poorly kept and worked regularly, may in time become quite safe and 
useful horses ; but those of high courage and spirit are almost sure to 
have fastened upon them one or more of the many bad habits, making 
horses unreliable or dangerous in character. 

The horse when frightened strives to avoid the cause of danger, 
whether real or imaginary. The more unexpected, the greater and 
more lasting the sense of danger, to a degree that may act so powerfully 
ui)on the nervous system as to fix an impression of fear which it is diffi- 
cult to overcome. Resistance once excited, the difficulty of successful 
restraint is increased ; the horse learning the possibility of resisting 
contro!, the disposition becomes so strong it at once becomes a habit to 
persist in, and all the great energies of the animal are brought into 
requisition, ^o matter what the habit, this peculiarity of persistence is 
evinced when once learned. A weak halter broken once or twice, the 
horse will strive to pull loose at all hazards, when and where hitched, 
the foot is pulled away when attempted to be shod, and the habit be- 
comes confirmed. Some minor part of the harness or wagon breaking, 
fear stimulates resistance, and once freeing himself, the horse will ever 
afterwards strive to get away under like circumstances. The same may 
be said of a vicious disposition. A stallion once encouraged to bite, 
and permitted to do so, leads to an eager disposition to bite ever after- 
wards. 

It is not only important to address the understanding correctly, but it 
is also absolutely necessary to success, since causes of confusion and 
excitement not only make the animal unable to understand, but stimu- 
late a hostile disposition, which tends directly to neutralize and destroy 
the success of the efforts. 

Blended with the skill of showing and teaching the horse a knowledge 
of what is required, is that of forcing obedience. This was at first done 
by the rudest of coercive measures. The first account we have of any 
horse being successfully subdued is that of young Alexander adroitly 
mounting and fearlessly riding a certain wild, unmanageable horse, which 



THE HORSE. y 

occurred about three hundred years before the Christian era. This prin- 
ciple of subjection, with shglit variation, is still practised by the Indians 
of our Western plains, the Mexicans, Australians, and many savage and 
semi-civilized people in different portions of the globe. 

Catching their horses with the lasso, the Indians mount and ride un- 
til from exhaustion and fatigue the animal becomes unabb to resist. 
After thus forcing submission, it is a practice among the Brazilians to 
cut off the ends of the hair of the tail, to indicate they are broken, and 
again turn them loose. The Chilians tie the refractory horse in a stall, 
and whip him mitil he lies down in despair, or falls from weakness. He 
is then tried, and if still refractory, the process is continued until he 
'becomes gentle. 

The effects of rude treatment are particularly noticeable on horses 
of a sensitive, ambitious character. Such either fret or are dangerous, 
when subject to the management of an impulsive, irritable groom, though 
extremely docile and safe to a careful, patient person. 

The great extremes of disposition and character in horses, show a 
peculiar adaptation for different purposes and requirements. The slow, 
dull, coarse-grained horse, naturally adapted for the cart or plough, can- 
not bear the active exertion necessary to great speed, while those of a 
higher or ambitious spirit would scarcely submit to this slow drudgery. 

These extremes illustrate equally well the marked peculiarities of 
disposition and character. Hence the necessity of harmonizing the 
efforts to the disposition and intelligence as well as that of habit. A high 
spirited horse would not bear the excitement and force, as that of a 
slower and less excitable disposition. There are frequently evinced re- 
markable extremes of disposition in equine character. I have found 
during my professional experience a number of naturally so wild and 
untamable a character that they would scarcely act like horses, unable 
to learn, and unwilling to yield to the most careful and thorough treat- 
ment. It is needless to add, exceptions of this character are usually 
developed by some great cause of fear or excitement upon the mare 
during gestation. It is also a well known fact, that if a stallion, even 
of a docile character, is excited and maddened at the time of using, 
the colt is almost certain to prove of a bad, irritable and treacherous 
disposition. Want of brain, or the extreme development of a hostile 
nature are to be regarded as exceptions, the management of which is 
not to be considered a rule for the education of those of an average 
character. The consciousness of power to inflict bodily punishment, 
destroy or preserve life, is the law of supremacy among the lower ani- 
mals, and the fearless confidence indicating this power has a great in- 
fluence in preventing the development of a hostile disposition. When 



8 THE UORSE. 

one animal finds himself unexpectedly in tlie presence of another fierce, 
powerful one, he rushes to the conflict or retreats in haste. But when 
he confronts a man, who knows that his safety depends upon his stand- 
ing unmoved, or who relies upon the use of some weapon of defence, he is 
disconcerted and discouraged at his boldness, and will usually retreat in 
fear. No animal has a keener intuition of the feelings, or is more easily en- 
couraged to viciousness by the indication of fear, or more forcibly held 
in check by a fearless, confident expression of manner, than the horse. 
It is not, however, to be inferred that, " not being afraid " of a horse is 
by any means to be construed into foolhardiness. Courage and confi- 
dence should be dictated by the danger shown. The expression of the 
eye, action of the ears, lips, etc., indicate clearly the intentions, dictat-* 
ing the hazard to be incurred. Whatever be the feelings, great stolid- 
nels of expression and action is indispensable. 

This not only aids in keeping resistance in check, but under some 
circumstances may be the means of preserving life. 

The control of horses is like that of an intricate but powerful ma- 
chine when under the subjection of skillful management. A machine 
has a part by the control of which it is made obedient to almost the 
slightest touch, and there are minor parts the derangement of whicli 
wo'uld destroy the usefulness of the whole. This, for example, is illus- 
trated in the steam engine. All its parts must harmonize, and the right 
head of steam must be maintained to ensure working easily and with cer- 
tainty. The principle is the same regarding the successful management 
of horses.' If horses be subjected to skillful and prudent management, 
they will easily be made docile and controllable. On the other hand, 
subjected to rude, imprudent treatment, they are at once liable to be- 
come unreliable, hostile and impulsive brutes. 

The generous reward of this skill should be an incentive to every one 
to acquire a correct knowledge of this duty. That there is great loss, 
and lamentable accidents caused almost daily in every neighborhood 
from the use of horses that are dangerously vicious and unmanageable, 
cannot be questioned. One horse will run away if given the least free- 
dom Another is liable to kick himself clear from the wagon should a 
strap dangle against the flanks, the breeching break, or anything unusual 
occur to excite his fears. 

One horse will baulk. Another goes when and where he pleases. An- 
other can scarcely be harnessed witli safety. Another will kick if the 
rein touches the hip, or is caught under the tail. One will not stand 
while being mounted, or while getting into the carriage. Another will 
not back. Others are frightened, and sheer and jump at a stone, sturap 
or a white cow. One horse cannot be driven by a load of hay, a rail- 



THE HORSE. , '9 

road track, etc., etc. While to otliers an umbrella, buffalo robe, or even 
a bit of white paper are terrible objects of fear. There are but very- 
few- even of the horses that are considered well broken, that have not 
some habit that makes them unpleasant, or greatly lessens their useful- 
ness and value. 

The loss occasioned and injury sustained by imprudence and defective 
training is almost beyond description, and above almost all other causes, 
is the source of a degree of anxiety and misery, the most hopefnl view 
of which must be regarded as lamentable. At least nine-tenths of this 
loss and annoyance can be prevented if my instructions are faithfully 
adhered to. It is seen how easily I make the worst of horses yield to 
my control, and if my principles of management are observed in prac- 
tice success must follow. 

The consciousness of contributing to ameliorating the condition and 
increasing the value for safety and usefulness of the most noble and val- 
uable of the domestic animals, is of itself a most generous reward. If 
he who teaches how to grow two blades of grass where but one was pro- 
duced, is a benefactor, he who invents or improves machinery by which 
labor is lessened, and its effectiveness increased, not only adds to indi- 
vidual but that of the national wealth, and merits the reward of success. 
Yet how much more valuable and gratifying the consciousness of increas- 
ing the safety and value of an animal necessity compels the use of, 
under circumstances involving great peril, if not made gentle and safe 
to the command of its driver. 

Well broken horses are a necessity demanded by the progress and intel- 
ligence of the age, and tliat the barbarous brutalizing custom of pound- 
ing and whipping, regardless of consequences, should be abolished. The 
consciousness of ability to make horses more safe and valuable is sup- 
planted by the conviction that this success is due to the prudence and 
skill, dependent upon the exercises of the reason stimulated and 
encouraged by the action of all the higher faculties of the mind. 

The genius by which the real point of success is brought to view,' 
excites the feelings to a keener sense of the relation and responsibility, 
from the attitude of which a more grateful and hopeful conviction of 
responsibility is forced with constantly increased beauty upon the mind. 

In its true sense the management of horses is in every way calculated 
to strengthen the mind and ennoble the character. This being true, 
what more desirable accomplishments than a knowledge of this science, 
which contributes so largely to the success and pleasure of life y 

There are numerous charlatans beft)re the public, professing to edu- 
cate and train the horse, who are perfectly ignorant of the first rudi- 
ments of the science of their profession. 



10 THE HORSE. 

Necessity compels me to mention the fact that in consequence of the 
various deceptions practised upon those interested in horses, many are 
inclined to turn the cold shoulder. 

I have now been upwards of eleven years before the public, and am 
professionally known, both North and South, as the most successful and 
practical teacher of this science. 

THE GREAT SECRET OP HORSE TAMING. 

The great secret of taming horses is, first, to get control of them. 
This must be by fear. They must be taught or shown that "man is 
master," that what he desires to do with them he can do. 

In this regard, nothing in my experience, nor, I believe, in any of the 
tamers who have preceded me, of whom John S. Rarey is the most 
known, is more effective than the throwing of the horse. Nothing so 
completely disgusts him, so to speak, as to thus convince him that he 
cannot do as he pleases, but that he must submit to the master. Hav- 
ing been thoroughly convinced that he is under control, that his move- 
ments are entirely under control, he reasons that he had better give up. 

Here let me give my pupil a few words of caution. Never let the 
horse perceive that you are angry ; try patiently to subdue the animal, 
but never by beating, and particularly by striking upon or about the 
head. He who first aspires to govern must first govern himself. Noth- 
ing is more fatal to the attempt at government of men or animals than 
oul-bursts of passion and rage. If you feel your temper getting the best 
of you, leave the task for the time, or you will only still more enrage, 
frighten and bewilder the horse, and so render hopeless the controlling 
intelligently, for the time, of the animal. 

How to Throw the Horse. 

Place upon the animal a strong surcingle (leather I use, though a com- 
bination of the braided hair girth of the Mexicans would be preferable) 
about three inches back of the fore legs ; connected with this must be a 
strong crupper. There must be a strong ring about one inch in diame- 
ter at the top of the surcingle, in the centre of the back, and another upon 
the right side in the centre. This being adjusted, proceed to strap up 
the left fore leg as follows : Take a common quarter strap, pass it two 
or three times around the leg between the coffin and pastern joints, and 
then buckle the leg closely up to the belly. 

Now place around the horse's neck a 1-4-inch rope, or 3-8, loosely, 
fixing the knot so it will not slip; bring the end down the side of the 



THE WILD COLT. H 

head on to the left side, pass it through the horse's mouth round tlie 
right side and througli either of the two rings in the surcingle, the one 
in the centre of the side, if the first time, will give you greater control 
with less exertion. Upon pulling upon the rope, standing in any posi- 
tion, the horse must come upon his side and without injury. I have 
thrown thousands and never knew one hurt. In practice, all will per- 
ceive the decided advantage over the Rarey process. The operation 
must be repeated from ten to twenty times, or until the horse seems 
entirely disgusted with the controversy. This operation, if properly 
conducted, will have resulted in the obtaining control of the horse and 
in his willingness to be accommodating at least. 

The next thing is to teach him the meaning of the word whoa, and 
obey it when spoken to him as a command. This also breaks him to 
the bridle. Place in his mouth the scissors or W bit, with headstall and 
lines attached (an ordinary bit will do, though the one named is prefer- 
able as being more secure). Now let the horse walk off a few feet (tea 
or twenty), and all at once jerk with all your force, accompanying the 
action with the word whoa. This repeated a score of times will teach 
the horse lastingly the word and the meaning. You must speak the 
word whoa just before you pull. This command to the horse must be 
repeated if at any time he grows restive and seems indisposed to obey 
the command whoa ; though an occasional jerk while driving, preceded 
by the word whoa, with any ordinary bit, will keep the horse in remem- 
brance. 

This is also effectual in breaking up the habit of kicking and running 
away. You must be severe with this ; it is easily learned to the horse, 
and is most effectual in preventing accidents. It is by this process of 
teaching that I learn horses to drive without headstall or bridle. 

THE WILD COLT. 

As the training of the horse must be based upon the observance of 
those principles of his nature requiring the exercise of his reason in 
everything forced upon his attention, and of conveying to his under- 
standing most clearly what is required of him, it is advisable to com- 
mence our lesson on the management of the horse by explaining how 
to proceed with the Wild Colt. The first step to be taken is to see that 
the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon the colt is unoccu- 
])ied by anything which will distract the attention of the colt, for 
instance, fowls and domestic animals, etc., and all persons except the one 
who is to undertake the training. This latter precaution should be taken 
for the reason that the presence of other parties would annoy the 



12 THE HORSE. 

colt. Also that by allowing them to be present you would violate the 
conditions of your instructions. 

Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt into his training 
place as carefully as possible, using such gentle means as may be con- 
venient and most likely to be successful without exciting the colt. 

Every farmer or person at all acquainted with the management of 
horses, knows well enough how to do this in his own way without being 
governed by any fixed rule. The next thing to be done is to 

Halter-break the Colt. 

As soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the restraint of the 
enclosure, go cautiously and slowly towards him, making no demonstra- 
tions at all, but talking gently, or singing, as you please. It does not 
understand your language, and your presence may attract his attention. 
If he begins to walk away from you, stop, but continue your talking or 
singing, and appear as careless as you can about his presence, until he 
becomes quiet again. Then start again and leisurely approach him as 
before, and so repeat, as circumstances require, until you are close 
enough to touch his withers, or permit him to smell of your hand, should 
he seem so disposed. Remember, you must be patient and gentle in 
all your actions. Now touch him on the withers gently, and gradually 
win his confidence, so that you can handle and rub him on the neck or 
head. Do not try to hold him or impose the least restraint ; that 
Atould cause him to become excited and afraid of you. 

Handle the colt in this way until he becomes reconciled to your pres- 
ence, and will suffer you to scratch him as you please. 

Now step back and take your halter quietly. The halter should be 
of leather. Rope halters are irritable to young horses ; they are so 
harsh that they hurt the head whenever the colt pulls. Beinij hurt the 
colt will naturally try to get his head out of the halter, and the more it 
■will hurt, because the tighter and harder it will pinch, which will 
frighten him the more, and he will try to free himself at all hazards 
until he pulls himself down or breaks the halter. In that case his 
experience would have been a bad one, for you would have learned him 
to be a halter puller. You hold the halter in the left hand, having un- 
buckled it, and approach the colt slowly ; don't be in a hurry ; give him 
time to smell and examine every part in his own way. While he is ex- 
ami-ning the halter, caress and rub him ; it will further your efforts greatly 
to give the colt something he likes, such as apples, oats, corn, salt, etc., 
that you can get hold of handily. Then take hold of the long strap 
which goes over the head with the right hand and carry it under his 



TO HALTER-BREAK A WILD COLT. 13 

neck, while you reach the left hand over the neck and grasp the end of 
this long strap ; then lower the halter just enough to get his nose into 
the nose piece, then raise it up to its proper place and buckle. 

This is the best method to halter a colt, and in cases of wild ones, per- 
severance and patience is required, always being careful not to become 
excited or angry, for in that case the colt will show a great deal more 
resistance, which, in the end, and at a great loss of time, you will have 
to overcome. 

HitcMng Colt in Stall. 

Two principles are involved in controlling and teaching the horse to 
submit to the restraint of the halter while hitched. Prepare your stall, 
which should be about four or five feet wide, by attaching a rope so as 
to bring it across and fasten firmly, so as to strike the hind parts ; or 
you can bore holes through so as to put a pole in the same manner as a 
rope. Now tie the halter long enough so that if the colt attempts to 
go back he will strike the rope or pole across behind him, before he can 
feel the restraint of the halter. You should in this, as in everything 
else you attempt, teach your colt to be gentle. In every case you 
should untie the halter before taking down the rope or pole. Another 
method : — Take a half-inch rope, place under the tail, cross on the back, 
bring forward and tie under the neck or the breast ; then pass the halter 
strap through the ring of the manger and tie to the rope, so when the 
horse pulls he will be punished, and the impression will be made stronger 
than the above. 

To Halter-break a Wild Colt. 

First, provide yourself with a little pole about ten or twelve feet long ; 
cut a notch in one end with your pocket-knife, and about seven inches 
from this end, drive a nail in, the head bent a little towards the end 
having no notch. Next, you want a good half-inch manilla rope, about 
thirty feet, with a slip-noose in one end, and a knot in the rope about 
twenty inches from the end with the noose, so that it will not draw so 
tight as to choke the colt down, but will allow the noose to draw tight 
enough to shut off" his wind, so as to prevent him from making a very 
obstinate resistance. Now get a short breast strap, or a long hame strap 
will do. This put into your pocket, convenient to the right hand, for 
future use. Now approach the colt slowly and carefully as before de- 
scribed, remembering that all persons must be excluded. When you 
succeed in approaching to within four or six feet of the shoulders, 
retreat slowly as before, and take your stick all ready prepared, holding 



14 THE HORSE. 

the notched end from you and swinging it very gently a little to the 
right and left in a horizontal position. This is a neiv object of fear to the 
colt, and will be regarded with a great deal of saspicion. However, a 
little patience will soon enable you to get so near the colt that you can 
hold your stick gently over the back and shoulders. Then grad- 
ually lower it, moving gently as before till you (an place your hand on 
his neck. As this is borne let it drop a little lower until it rests upon 
the mane. Now commence scratching the neck with the stick, gently 
but firmly. This will please the colt and cau^e him to stand quiet. 
While scratching with your stick in this way, slide your right hand 
slowly and cautiously along its surface until you get to the mane, when 
you scratch with the hand in the place of the stick. All this is proving 
to the colt that you will not hurt him ; in fact you please, and hence he 
submits quietly. Now step back quietly to where your rope is and take 
the noose and place it on the stick, letting it rest on the stick, and be- 
tween the nails or shavings, with the main part of the noose hanging be- 
low the stick, and large enough so as to be slipped over the head easily 
while you keep the other end of the rope in the hand with the stick. 
Your halter or noose now hangs upon your stick, so spread that you 
can slip it over the colt's head without touching a hair. Your halter 
arranged, holding it before you swinging upon the stick, you approach 
the colt in the same cautious manner as before until you bring it to the 
nose. This being a new object of fear to the colt, he will smell of it 
cautiously. While he is smelling it you are gradually raising it over his 
head, so gently he does not feel or care about it until you get it well 
back of the ears, then turn your stick, and your noose will drop on his 
neck. If he does not start, take the slack in your rope gently, at the 
same time approach his shoulders cautiously and rub him gently, if he 
will allow it. 

If he should endeavor to run away, keep hold of the rope. If he 
tries very hard to get away he soon finds himself out of wind caused 
by the pressure of the rope aboui the neck, consequently he will offer 
but little resistance, and will very soon allow you to come up to him 
just as you please. Now you should use him gently. 

As soon as he will allow you to approach, loosen the noose from his 
neck, and by kind words and caresses let him know you do not wish to 
hurt him. Keep on caressing him till he will allow you to rub his neck 
and ears. Encourage him by feeding from your hand something that 
he likes. When he submits so far as to let you handle his head and 
neck, take the other end of the rope and tie a round, hard knot in the 
end, and another knot about twenty-five inches from the end. 

This knot should be left slack. Now take the end of the cord in the left 



TO HALTER-BREAK A COLT. 1j 

hand and carry it laider the neck to the opposite side, while you reach 
over with the right hand and take it and bring it over the top of the 
neck again. Now put the knot in the end of the cord through the other 
and secure by drawing as tight as possible. Now make a loop by draw- 
ing it up as tight as possible. Now make a loop by drawing a double 
of the slack rope undo- the rope around the neck. Make the loop long 
enough to slip into the volt's mouth, which can be done easily by gently 
insisting on his confidence. A green colt is not bad about taking any- 
thing in his mouth if ycu use judgment and do not frighten him. Slip 
this loop well up above the bridle teeth, and place the lip well over the 
jaw, under the roof. Now draw upon your loop and take the noose you 
first had about the neck off entirely. You now take hold of the end of 
the cord. You will find you have a means of power in your hands that 
makes the strongest horse almost a plaything. And we claim the Co- 
manche bridle, and its value in managing and training colts, cannot be 
over-estimated when u^ed with judgment and handled with adroitness 
and skill. It should never be used so harshly as to excite extreme pain 
and yet with a touch that causes a fear of resistance. You now have 
your Comanche bridle, and can control the colt almost at will. If he 
should endeavor to run away from you, give him a quick, sharp jerk, 
and at the same time say ho, and repeat as often as he may make the 
attempt to get away. When he stops go up to him and caress him 
about the neck and head. 

When he gives up to the rope enough so that he does not try to get 
away, then proceed to learn him to lead. With your rope in hand step 
back to his side, opposite his hips, and say, " Come here," at the same 
time giving him a sharp pull on the halter. He will swing around to- 
wards you, and if he only takes one step in the right direction let him 
know that that was what you wanted. To make him understand that 
he has done right, go up to him, speak kindly to him, and call him by 
name, at the same time petting and caressing with the hand. 

Then walk around on the opposite side and repeat. Encourage him 
for every step taken in the right direction by caressing and kind words, 
and in a very short time he will come to you at the word, and follow 
you around like a dog. If the colt is wilful and stubborn, handle him 
with the Comanche bridle until he will stand quietly, then take your 
strap, previously provided, in the right hand, holding by the buckle. 

Now commence raising gently the foot next to you. If he resists 
your efforts, reprove him with the halter, and keep on rubbing and 
caressing the leg till you can take the foot in your hand, then slip the 
strap around below the fetlock, putting the end through the keeper on 
the inside of the buckle ; draw it up tight so that it will not slip up, then 



IQ THE HORSE. 

pass the strap around the arm from the inside of* the Jeg, and bring 
over to the outside, and buckle. By putting him on three legs he can 
offer but little resistance when pulled by the hea4 sideways, and as he 
does not reason, will come around as readily yith his legs free as he 
will on three. Now step back on a line with tl^ hips, holding the hal- 
ter firmly and say, " Come here." He of coursftdoes not obey ; so you 
pull on the bridle and he is obliged to swing aijbund to you. Now step 
to the other side and repeat ; bring him arounc by the halter each time 
until, when he hears the words, come here, he will obey readily. 

As soon as the colt submits to this step, reijiove the strap from off 
the leg and rub the foot gently where the str^p has been. Now step 
back sideways, and as before, say, " Come here," If he does not come 
readily, give him a sharp pull with the rope, wlich shows him that you 
can handle him as well on four legs as you can on three. Now if he 
moves a little to obey, caress him, and so continue until he will follow 
you readily. 

How to Handle a Colt's Teet. 

After breaking the colt to lead well, caress and rub him on the shoul- 
ders as at first, and as soon as he will bear, work "down the withers and 
leg ; then lift lightly on the foot ; if it is submitted to, rub it quickly and 
smoothly a few seconds, then put it down and take it again, and so con- 
tinue until you can handle the foot as you please. 

The main point for you to consider is, that you are to make the colt 
understand that you will not hurt him, and to do this you must be 
gentle. Now place your hand on the shoulder and run it back over the 
side and hips softly and quickly ; handle every part thoroughly as you 
work along towards the leg, and as the colt will bear, work the hands 
around the leg until you reach the foot. If there is no resistance after, 
lift up a little, and if there is no resistance after letting it down, rub 
gently a little more ; repeat each time, lifting it up a little higher, until 
you can take it up and handle it just as you please. Should he, how- 
ever, resist, and jerk his foot away from you, you must resort to means 
to make him understand that resistance is out of the question. 

In endeavoring to manage and control your colt, you should have 
your Comanche bridle on as before described. Now take the long rope 
that you hold in your hand and put it around over the front teeth of 
the upper jaw, and under the upper lip, carry it around over the top of 
the head, bringing the end down through the halter loop on the under 
jaw. Now take the end of the rope in your left hand and proceed as 
before to handle his legs and feet. If he stands quietly, use him gently, 
but if he should resist, correct him with your rope, by which you can 



HOW TO BIT A COLT AND MAKE A BRIDLE. IJ 

inflict so severe a punishment that he will submit in a very short time, 
and allow you to handle his legs just as you please. Persevere until 
you can hold the foot in your hand, moving it gently and caressing the 
leg until he gets over the fear inspired by the use of the cord under the 
lip. If more thorough treatment is necessary, see " Proper Manage- 
ment of Horses bad to shoe." 

How to Bit a Colt and Make a Bridle. 

Take your Comanche bridle, made exactly as before described, with 
the exception of the loop that goes around the neck : that should be 
made large enough to fit over the neck rather tightly where the collar 
is WDi.n. Now bring your cord through the mouth from the off side, 
and bring back on the near, through the loop around the neck ; now 
pull upon this cord and the head will be drawn back to the breast, tie 
with a bow-knot and draw down close, so that should the colt show 
signs of rearing backwards, with one short jerk you can relieve him, 
while, should he go over backward with the restraint on his neck he 
would be likely to injure himself. 

You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon the cord a little, 
which will draw the head back shghtly ; after holding for a short time, 
render loose ; then draw a little tighter, and repeat for four or five 
minutes, then stop bitting, and repeat at some future time. 

The great secret not only in bitting but of training the young horse 
in any manner is in not confusing or exciting him to resistance by 
training too long. When your colt yields readily to the bit, you can 
check the head to suit. Making the check-rein rather tight causes the 
head to be carried high, while the delicacy given the mouth will prevent 
the nose being thrown forward. This method of bitting may be re- 
garded with little favor by those not understanding its effects, but all 
we have further to say on the subject is, give it a fair trial. Teach your 
colt to be perfectly submissive to your handling in every manner ; to 
lead well, and back freely at the word. You are now ready for the 
next step in his training, which is usually driving in harness. 

Breaking Colts to Harness. 

Put on your harness carefully, which should be made to fit well, and 
great care should be used in having it safe and strong in every respect. 
Do not be tempted to drive your colt in an old, rotten harness, or hitch 
to an old, rotten wagon, as such are liable to give way at ^iny time. 
Many of the accidents causing horses to become subject to bad habits 



13 THE HORSE. 

are the results of such imprudence. Let every step be made sure. 
Work safe and you are sure to bring about a good result. 

With your harness on, allow him to stand in his stall until he becomes 
somewhat used to the presence and pressure of the different parts, and 
will allow you to rattle them about without his caring for them. Now 
lead him around for a short time, and as soon as he appears quiet, check 
him up loosely and take down the reins and drive him around the yard. 
When he becomes familiar with the harness, check and reins, and will 
stop and start at the word, and drive around to the right or left, you 
can drive him about the street with safety, though in making this step 
put on the Comanche bridle for safety. You should then drive to sulky. 
We prefer a sulky at first. Let your colt see and examine every part of 
the sulky, until he cares nothing about it; then draw forth a few times, 
then attach the harness. Before starting him, back him up against the 
cross-bar of the shafts. If he should act frightened speak to him calmly 
but firmly, at the same time holding your reins firmly so as to prevent 
him from swinging around, if he should try. Then go to him and rub 
and caress him until he gets over his excitement. Then run the sulky 
up against his haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle words 
until you can shove the sulky against him just as you please and he not 
care anything about it. Now you can get into your seat and drive him 
around wherever you choose without danger. Let him go slow at first, 
until he becomes familiarized with the objects that are new to him along 
the road, as he is not as liable to become frightened while going slow as 
when driven fast. 

Objects of Fear. 

In driving, be careful about using the whip too freely. If a stone or 
a stump, or anything of the kind, should be regarded with fear, do not 
whip and drive the horse by. Let him stand a short time and look at 
the object until he seems careless" about it, then drive closer, as he will 
bear, and so repeat, at the same time talking to him encouragingly until 
you can drive him up to the object. Be very sure to have your colt 
comprehend fully that such- objects are harmless — as opportunity offers 
in this way — and he will soon become so fearless and confident as to be 
regardless of such things ; but if you whip him for becoming frightened 
at such things, he will associate the punishment with the object of his 
fright, and be more frightened the next time he sees it. • 

The horse being unable to reason only from his experience, you should 
convince him by careful examination that the object is harmless. For 
example : if the sight or smell of a robe a few feet distant should 
frighten him, put on your Comanche bridle and take him alone into 



DRIVING A COLT IN HARNESS. jg 

your yard or barn, lead him gently to the robe, let him smell of it if he 
will, then take it in your hand, hold it gently to his nose, then rub it 
against his neck, side, and oyer his back, and so repeat for a short time. 
After being familiarized to it in this way, you can throw it over his back 
or tie it to his tail without causing him the least fear. 

To familiarize a colt with any article that he may have regarded with 
fear, let him touch it with his nose, and rub him on the neck and side, 
and in a short time, when he finds it will not hurt him, he will become 
reconciled and care nothing about it. 

To accustom your horse to the cars, lead him up to them, let him 
*mell of them, and even put his nose on them, and in this way continue 
until he becomes familiar with them. And then do not fail to repeat 
your lessons until he cares nothing about the object. Should you fail 
by neglect, it may render him worse than as though you had done noth- 
ing with him. 

Driving a Colt in Harness. 

When your horse drives well before a sulky then you may hitch him 
to a light wagon or by the side of a broke horse, and if you are break- 
ing him for a farm or for hauling heavy loads, you can gradually in- 
crease his load until he will draw to the extent of his ability without 
comprehending that he has the i)ovver to do otherwise. After your 
horse is sufficiently broke to the harness, you can either allow him to 
carry his head as nature may dictate, or by the proper use of the check 
rein bring his head and neck into such position of style as his form and 
temper will bear, or your fancj'' dictate. In teaching your young 
horse to drive well, do not be in a hurry to see how fast he can trot. 
Although your colt may be old enough to learn how to move well and 
perhaps drive gently as an older horse, he is not old enough to perform 
the work of an older horse, fully matured. Require but little at first, 
gradually increasing as he develops in strength and hardens in gait. 
Care should be taken to keep each pace clear and distinct from each 
other. While walking he should be made to walk, and not allowed to 
trot. While trotting, as in walking, care should be taken that he keeps 
steady at his pace and not allowed to slack into a walk. When occa- 
sionally pushed to his extreme speed in trot, he should be kept up to 
it only for a few minutes at a time, gradually requiring more as he be- 
comes practised and capable of endurance ; and whenever he has done 
well he should be permitted to walk a short time, and encouraged by 
a kind word. Under no circumstances should what is termed "his 
bottom " be tried and overdone. 

The reins while driving should be kept snug, and when pushing him 



^ THE HORSE. 

to the top of his speed, keep him well in hand that he may learn to bear 
well on the bit, as it is by means of the reins mainly that the horse, 
when going at a high rate of speedy is kept steady in his pace. But 
while you should teach your horse to drive well to the pressure of the 
bit, be careful not to give him the habit of pulling too hard, for then he 
becomes not only unpleasant but difficult to manage. The art of draw- 
ing well cannot be taught by any written instructions. Practice and 
ingenuity in this respect can alone make a skillful horseman. Always 
strive to encourage and not overdrive your horse, and be careful not to 
whip only for merited reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will 
cause the horse to plunge ahead every time he sees or hears any unusual 
movement of it, or at any mishap that may occur. 

To Train a Horse to Stand when getting into a Carriage. 

Take your horse and lead him on the barn floor ; place him in the 
position you wish him and say " ho." The object of this lesson is to teach 
him the word " ho," the most important word in horsemanship. You 
will proceed by stepping away from him, and if he appears to trifle and 
not heed you use the Comanche bridle, pulling upon him, to warn him 
to attend to you. Practice this until he will allow you to walk away in 
any direction without moving himself. Take a whip and crack it slightly, 
and if he moves put him back as before, increasing the cracks of the 
whip until you accustom him to stand while the whip is being flourished, 
and also to throw him and apply the method of controlling a nervous 
horse. If you are obliged to drive him while you are trying to break 
him, do not use the word " ho," as he is not yet accustomed to minding 
it, and it will only make matters worse. Shift the position of the horse 
and repeat the lesson, putting on the harness and leading to places where 
he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and teach him to stand in those 
places, as well as teaching him to obey the word " ho" before hitching 
him to the carriage. Then hitch inside a building with the door closed. 
Get in and out of the carriage, rattle the thills and shake the carriage, 
causing him to stand, by means heretofore alluded to. If it appears 
tliat the habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind him, take him 
out of the thills and lead him around it, allowing him to examine it, and 
even eat oats out of a measure set in the carriage. Now take him out 
of doors, and if he renews his attempt to start take him out of the thills 
and use the Comanche bridle, fetching him back between the thills, and 
say " ho." You will by this means soon teach him that " ho " means 
for him to stop and stand. For the sake of not undoing all you have 



HOW TO THROW A HORSE. 21 

done, remember the caution heretofore given to say " ho " only when 
you mean to stop. 

Horses Baulking. 

This is the most aggravating of all the habits to which the horse is 
subject ; it tries the patience of man to the utmost ; yet by patience 
and perseverance, with proper management, even this habit can be 
broken up. It is rarely we find a baulky horse which is not a good one. 
They are usually very high spirited, quick of comprehension and of a 
strong nervous temperament. They resist because we have failed to 
make them understand what we require of them, or it may occur from 
overloading, sore shoulders or working until tired out. Particularly is 
this the case with young animals. To whip under such circumstances 
only excites them to more determined resistance. On the first attempt 
of your horse to baulk, get out of the wagon, pat him upon the neck, 
examine the harness carefully, first upon one side, then upon the other, 
speaking encouragingly to the animal while doing so; then jump in the 
wagon and give the word to go ; generally he will obey ; if he refuses 
to do so, take him out of the thills, put up the traces so that they do 
not drag upon the ground, then take him by the head and tail, reel him 
until he is almost ready to fall, then hook him up again and give him 
the word to go ; this rarely fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them 
and they start at the word. 

I have failed but once in handling baulky horses, though I have 
handled a large number of them. By repeating the same operations 
every day for a week, usually breaks up this most perplexing habit 
thoroughly and permanently. 

Another method which will prove successful to break a horse in double 
harness is, to take a hemp cord, pass around under the tail, bring for- 
ward through the terret ring of the baulky horse, and fasten to the ring 
of the other horse's collar or hame ; when the other horse starts the 
baulky horse can do no other way than move with him, and in a short 
time, if the horse is hitched single or double, by taking your whip or 
any common stick and place on the back of the crupper-strap the horse 
will start readily. 

How to Throw a Horse. 

The only practical method of throwing a horse, first adopted by R. P. 

Hamilton, is easy to the person handling the horse and safe. The horse 

lays down quietly, almost as easy as when lying down by himself in the 

. stall. To perform the work procure a rope or any strap long enough to 

pass around the horse, and tie in a knot on the back with an iron rin^, 



22 THE HORSE. 

small size, tied fast ; pass the end of the strap or rope around under the 
tail for a crupper, bring the end back, fastening to the belt around the 
body ; then take a small cord of sufficient strength to hold your heft ; 
pass around the horse's neck, tie in a knot that will not slip ; then pass 
the cord through the horse's mouth, and stroll back to the ring on the 
horse's back ; when that is accomplished pass a strap around the near 
fore foot twice and through the keeper, strapping the foot to the belt 
around the horse ; when that is done, step back from the horse, taking 
hold of the small cord, pulling gently till you have the head to the side, 
then with a quick pull bring the horse to the ground, with his knee to 
steady him as he falls. It can be done with ease and safety. Whatever 
may be the bad habit of your horse, it is a very good plan to give him 
a regular course of training, and by throwing a horse down and hand- 
ling him just as you please while down, demonstrates to the understand- 
ing of the animal that it is worse than useless to try to resist cbntrol. 
It is the best way we have ever found to handle nervous horses. After 
handling gently while down they find they are not hurt, and get over 
their fear, and will allow you to do with them as you like anywhere. 

Pulling at Halter. 

Place on him a common halter headstall. Put on a common girth. 
Take a half-inch rope about twenty feet long. Pass the centre of this 
rope under the tail in place of a crupper ; twist the rope over a couple 
of times ; pass the end of the rope under the girth, bringing an end up on 
each side of the neck, and pass the ends through the nose-piece of the 
headstall under the check pieces, and tie to a stout ring or place, leav- 
ing about three feet play of rope. As soon as the horse falls back, he 
being tied by the tail to the ring, he pulls upon the tail, and the hurt 
coming there instead of the head, where he expected it, he starts up, 
it being natural to go from the hurt. By giving him two or three les- 
sons, making him fall by whipping him over the nose or exciting him 
with an object he is afraid of, the impression being so strong, he will 
not forget it, and the more so by repeating for one month or more les- 
sons at different times. 

To Break Horses from Jumping. 

Tie a strap to the fore feet below the knees ; pass it up under a surcin- 
gle around the body, and tie the other ends above the gamble joint to 
straps inclosed in a ring, so one will go above and the other below the 
gamble joint. You will see that when he attempts to jump a fence the 



CRIBBING. 23 

fore foot is drawn up under him, and as he springs to leave the ground 
the hind feet will be pulled up, and he will inevitably remain in the lot. 
The value of this plan is that it will in most instances cure a horse or 
cow of the habit. 

Pawing in Stall and Kicking of One t'oot. 

Get a piece of chain ten inches in length, run a short strap through 
one of the end links and buckle it around the foot above the fetlock; or 
a piece of light chain can be fastened to a single block and attach it to 
the foot in the same manner when the horse attempts to paw or kick ; 
the clog or chain rattles against the foot and prevents a repetition of the 
practice. 

Cribbing. 

The act of cribbing indilces a peculiar contraction of the muscles of 
the neck — the larynx is forced down much beyond its natural position. 
The enlargement of the neck while biting or sucking wind enables us 
easily to prevent and cure this habit. 

Have the throatlatch of the halter made of nice stiff leather, and fitted 
neatly to the throat. Take a piece of strap about five inches long and 
the same width of the throatlatch ; drive eight ounce tacks in a row 
through the centre, about three-eighths of an inch apart. File the ends 
to an equal length and very sharp. Lay this strap on the inside of the 
throatlatch, on the part coming directly under the throat. Wind a 
waxed end around the centre and the throatlatch and knot firmly, and 
tie the ends down in the same manner. This brings a row of sharp 
points across the throat when the throatlatch is buckled up — when prop- 
erly adjusted and fitted — that will stick into the neck at the least effort 
to crib, but do not interfere in the least during the ordinary process of 
eating and drinking. The throatlatch of the bridle must be armed in 
the same manner, so that the horse is not at liberty to crib under any 
circumstances. If the horse is young, and the habit is not of long con- 
tinuance, there is but little doubt of being able to break it up with ordi- 
nary effort and care ; and if it should not break the old horse of long 
experience in the habit, it can be relied on as a sure preventive. I 
v/ould keep every young horse subject to this means as reproof for at 
least from one to three months. Much will depend upon getting the 
points of the tacks even and sharp, and everything fitted nicely. The 
throatlatch must not be so tight as to cause the points of the tacks to 
touch the neck when the horse is eating or drinking, or so loose as not 
to touch sharply when there is an effort to crib. 



2i THE HORSE. 

It seems almost useless to urge care and attention to these details to 
persons of no delicacy or aptitude, and yet success will depend almost 
wholly upon the skill and care evinced in arranging and carrying out 
these details to an exact adaptation, and seeing that it is maintained tb 
the end of success. This habit can sometimes be cured instantly, by 
holding a bottle of spirits of ammonia in the hand, with the thumb 
firmly held over the mouth, so holding it that the instant the horse 
cribs, by raising the thumb the ammonia will be inhaled through the 
nose. The shock to the nerves when inhaled in this way is sometimes 
so great as to cause the horse to fall down as if shot, and will often pro- 
duce so powerful an impression upon the mind as to cure the habit. 

Another Way. 

Place a roller at the top of your manger, six inches in diameter, 
reaching across the stall. Let the horse eat*his hay and grain from the 
bottom of the manger. The stall should be wide enough so he can be 
tied to prevent him from cribbing at the sides of the stall, and also to be 
ceiled in front so as to prevent him. When he attempts to crib he must 
inevitably work on the roller which, when he places his teeth to crib, 
the roller turns, his lips comes in contact with the roller atid punishes 
him at every attempt, and after a few trials he becomes satisfied and 
will not attempt to crib. 

To lead a horse behind a wagon, take a stout cord or small rope, and 
place under his tail, cross on the back, and run through the rings of the 
halter ; first hitch him to a post, and by hitting him over the nose with 
something, or to excite him, make him pull, which will satisfy him of 
his useless attempts at holding back on the halter ; then hitch him to 
the wagon, and you will find no trouble in riding home without the 
many inconveniences of leading. 

Kicking in Harness. 

Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, because of the dan- 
ger incident to the use of such horses. It is well to remember that this 
habit is in most cases the result of carelessness or mismanagement. 
Proper attention is not given to the fitting of the harness ; the straps 
dangle about the flanks of the colt, unacquainted with their nature, 
wliich frightens and causes him to kick. Or, what is more common, an 
old harness is used and breaks at some unlucky moment, which frightens 
the colt, and he kicks as a means of self-defence ; when his feet and legs 
coming in contact with the whiffletree or cross-piece, causes him 



KICKING IN HARNESS. 05 

greater fright, and he becomes reckless, springs ahead in a frantic en- 
deavor to free himself from his tormentor, until he tears himself loose, 
or is stopped after being worried out with fright and exertion. Learn- 
ing fear and resistance in this way, he becomes alarmed at the least in- 
dication of its repetition. This fear must be broken by familiarizing the 
horse with the causes of his fear, at a time when he is powerless to re- 
sist, and when he finds there is no danger of harm he will cease resist- 
ance. In the majority of cases this habit is broken by our means of 
control. 

To break the kicking horse, you want to put him through a regular 
course of handling that will convince him of your ability to manage 
him just as you please, while at the same time you demonstrate to his 
understanding that he cannot help himself, and must submit uncondi- 
tionally to your control. In the first place, then, give him a turn with 
the Comanche bridle, making him stop at the word ho ! and come to 
you at the word. When he submits to that, proceed still further in 
convincing him of your power and mastery by throwing him down. To 
do this, fasten up the near fore leg, as described in " Handling the 
Feet." 

Now put a strong surcingle, with a ring slipped on it, around the 
animal, and slip the ring to the right side of the horse, near the back- 
bone. Now draw the end of your cord or Comanche bridle through 
the ring, bringing it over to the near side of the animal ; now take the 
halter out of the mouth, thus leaving a plain loop around the horse's 
neck ; then take hold of your cord with the left hand and straighten it 
out. 

Now you have a plain double from the neck of the horse around to 
the ring on the right side ; you put this into the horse's mouth, and 
draw up the end of the cord with the right hand. Now you have him 
completely in your power ; you can handle him as easily as a boy could 
a top. Now step back by his side with a cord grasped firmly in your 
hand, say, " Lie down, sir," at the same time pulling steadily on the 
rope. His foot being fastened up he is easily thrown off his balance. 
He will gradually settle down on to the knee of the near leg, when a 
quick pull will bring him over on his side. 

Now you have him down, use him gently ; rub his head and neck ; 
talk to him kindly, thus letting him know that your object is not to hurt 
him ; that all you require is submission, and that you possess the ability 
to enforce that. After letting him lie for a while, make him get up on 
three legs, let him stand a moment, then put him down again. While 
down, handle his feet and legs as you please, and so continue until he 
will lie still and submit to you in everything you wish. Then take the 



28 THE HORSE. 

Strap off his leg and let hira get up ; caress and rub his leg where the 
strap has been. 

Now put the harness on. Use a blind-bridle with a W bit (or some 
call it a double-joint bit), and if you cannot obtain one at your harness 
maker's, go to a blacksmith and have one made. With this kind of a 
bit on your horse, you want to drive him around your yard, occasionally 
saying ho, at the same time setting him back upon his haunches with 
the bit. In a very short time he will stop when you say ho, without 
any pull on the rein ; then go up to him and caress him about the head 
and neck ; then take j^our whip and switch him around the hind legs 
and flanks, lightly, and if he shows a disposition to kick or run, say ho 
sharply, at the same time correct with the bit. 

In your first lesson use the bit with severity ; thus demonstrating to 
the horse your determination and ability to enforce obedience under 
any and all circumstances of resistance. When you can drive him 
around with a whip at a trot, and stop him at the word without using 
the rein, go to him again and pat and rub him to encourage him in 
well-doing. Then attach the long cord to your reins, and start him 
away from you at a trot, letting him go as far as the length of your 
cord will permit without pulling on the bit, when you will say ho. If 
he scops, go up and caress him, and keep on in that way until he will 
stop and start at the word, no matter how far away he is, so long as he 
can hear your voice. 

After you have him so well in hand that he obeys readily and willingly 
take the reins in your hand and learn him to back, encouraging him by 
kindness when he does right, and correcting with the bit when he shows 
the least intimation to be rebellious and stubborn. When he will back 
at the word, back him against your buggy wheels, keeping an eye on 
his movements, and if he shows fear and a disposition to get away from 
it, do not force him against it at first, but drive him around and up to, 
letting him smell and examine it until he becomes satisfied it is not 
going to hurt him ; then back him up to it again, right back against it, 
and if he is disposed to kick say ho, sharply, at the same time giving 
him a short quick jerk with the rein. By this treatment he finds that 
you still have the same power in your hands that has already controlled 
him so completely and easily, therefore he submits unconditionally. 

You can now proceed to hitch him up ; watch him closely, and if 
anything should excite him momentarily, and he should manifest a 
desire to repeat his old habit, say ho, and if he does not obey instantly 
set him back with the bit in a manner that shall leave no doubt of your 
ability to control him at will. If handled in this way for a few times, 
he becomes convinced of the uselessnesa of resistance, and careful man- 



THE R UNA WA Y HORSE. 27 

agement for two or three weeks will radically break the worst horse of 
this kind we ever saw. 

People have often expressed wonder at our success in managing kick- 
ing and runaway horses. The simple laws of nature are to such un- 
worthy of reflection, except the submission of the animal, the control 
is looked upon as the result of a peculiar gift. But we do control them 
perfectly and thoroughly by the word ho. In breaking to the word we 
use means that compel obedience. If your horse minds the word 
quickly and stops at your bidding, he is not going to do you or himself 
any damage by kicking, for if you stop him whenever the old habit is 
brought to mind, and let him stand until the excitement is over, he will 
have no incentive for kicking, and in a short time will forget the habit 
altogether. So with 

The Runaway Horse. 

Handle with the Comanche bridle, and by throwing the same as the 
kicking horse in harness, unless the habit is caused by fear of some ob- 
ject, such as an umbrella, buffalo robe or anything else that may frighten 
him and cause him to run away ; if that should be the case, when you 
have him down put the frightful object — whatever it may be — around 
him, throw it onto him, at the same time rub and caress him, let him 
know that it is nothing that will hurt him, then let him up, put it on over 
him, rub him with it ; and in that way familiarize him with it until he 
cares nothing about it. Then train him in harness until he will mind 
the word ho. Make him run, and if he does not stop at the word, stop 
him by the bit so suddenly as to disconcert him and destroy his confi- 
dence completely. 

Although we have given a powerful means of coercion, and of im- 
pressing the horse of his inability to resist the power of man, still prac- 
tical and thorough as those means are. they are of but little account if 
not used with prudence and judgment. Men are too apt to depend upon 
main strength and stupid harshness for success in the management of 
horses. And with equal stupidity the basis of control we have here 
given may be made in the hands of some power to be abused with reck- 
less disregard of consequences. Be Firm, persevering and prudent in 
the exercise of your power when it necessary to impress your subject 
with a sense of mastery ; but be gentle, attractive and affectionate 
when he is obedient and submissive. Train your horse thoroughly with 
the Comanche bridle each time before hitching up. We find by experi- 
ence that horses subject to bad habits are ungovernable in the mouth. 
If we govern the mouth well, we have, in almost every instance, a good 



28 THE HORSE. 

control of the horse ; and it is an important requisite, under all circum- 
stances, in the control of horses in harness. 

Then control wliile driving, until thorough and certain obedience is in- 
sured to the word. Strive to tell your horse exactly what you want him 
to do, and do not confuse him by attaching different meanings to the 
same word. It is quite common to say ho when it is intended to go 
slower, or to attract the attention of the horse when standing, to let him 
know of your presence. Now if anything should happen, and you 
wished him to stop suddenly, he would not be likely to mind without a 
pull at the bit; and why should he, as long as he has been learned in 
that hap-hazard way that ho meant anything and nothing at the same 
timel Such training confuses the horse so much that, though he is 
naturally obedient and tractable, he will become careless and obstinate. 

Have a distinct word for every command, and make him understand 
that every command must be obeyed. Speak in a natural tone of voice 
to your horse under all circumstances. Nothing confuses a horse more 
than screaming at him to have him hear. He is as acute in the sense 
of hearing as man, and so sensitive, if nervous, as to have his pulse in- 
creased from six to ten beats a minute by one harsh word. Have your 
horse understand that things likely to frighten are harmless, and be 
sure not to whip for being frightened. If your horse is frightened at 
anything approaching, let him stand until it passes ; but hold the reins 
snug and firmly, or he may swing round and upset you. If cars are 
passing, and are regarded with fear, let your horse face them, but hold 
him immovable with the reins. Always, under such circumstances, talk 
encouragingly to him, remembering the slower you move him the more 
power you have over him. There is but little danger of a horse kicking 
after being sto})ped or while moving slowly, and so with the runaway. 
He will seldom make a second attempt at the time he has been foiled 
and stopped. 

A horse frightened becomes reckless, consequently never raise an 
umbrella suddenly or unexpectedly behind a horse afraid of such things. 
First raise it at his head and gradually carry it back, and then, to make 
sure, if you have not a bit that will control your horse easily, ])ut on a 
Comanche bridle, and carry it back in the wagon or buggy. Fear and 
anger is something that a good horseman should never exhibit in his 
countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon learns 
to take advantage of such indications to become careless, or, excited by 
anger, may become aggressive or unmanageable. 

Let your lessons be thorough, but not very long. Be gentle and pa- 
tient with the colt, but make the wilful, stubborn horse feel the full ex- 
tent of your power. Make the old reprobate know that the only alter- 



BAD TO SHOE. 29 

native is unconditional submission to your will ; though if he should 
become too much heated and excited, it is prudent to stop and repeat 
the lesson at some future time ; but repeat until there is thorough and 
unconditional submission. After a horse submits, let your treatment be 
characterized by gentleness and good-nature. . 

Bad to Shoe. 

The habit of resistance to being shod or allowing the feet to be han- 
dled, like all others to which horses are subject, is the result of hasty 
and imprudent harshness. It would seem from the reckless disregard 
of consequences so generally evinced in handling young horses, as 
though man doubted his own reason, and would not take counsel of the 
teacliings of prudence. If the feet had been handled gently at first, and 
blacksmiths had not vented so much of their vexation in the way of 
f)ounding with the hammer for every little movement of resistance in 
shoeing, this habit would never have been contracted. 

The natural tractability of the horse causes him to yield a ready obe- 
dience to all reasonable demands that he comprehends. If the feet are 
jerked up roughly, and without an effort to reconcile him to being han- 
dled, the colt will strive to get away or free himself from what he sup- 
poses will hurt him. Never hold to the foot with all your might when 
the colt is trying to jerk it away, for in such a case strength is not your 
forte, and your struggles only convince the horse of your weakness. 
Handle the horse in conformity with the laws of his nature, so as not to 
excite resistance through fear of injury. If the horse does not very 
much resist the handling of his feet, put the Comanche bridle on him and 
put a short strap on his hind foot. Pulling upon the strap will bring 
the foot forward, and he will probably resist by kicking. The instant 
he kicks, reprove with the Comanche bridle, which is held in the other 
hand, and so continue until the foot is submitted without resistance. Bat 
if your subject is very bad, take a strap or rope about twelve feet long, and 
tie one end of it in a loop around his neck where the collar rests, pass the 
other end back between the fore legs and around the near hind leg 
below the fetlock, thence back between the leg and through the loop 
around the neck. Now step in front of the horse and take firm hold of 
the rope or strap and give a quick pull upon it, which will bring the 
foot forward. If the horse is bad, pull the foot as far forward as you 
can, which will give you the more advantage. The horse will try to 
free the foot by kicking. Hold the head firmly with the left hand, and 
with the other hold the strap firmly. 

Stand right up to the horse's shoulder and whirl him about you, 



30 THE HORSE. 

which you can easily do while he struggles to free himself. As soon as 
he yields, handle the foot gently, and then let up on it a little, and so 
continue until he will let you handle the foot without resistance. It may 
be necessary to repeat the lesson once or twice, and be careful to handle 
the foot with the greatest gentleness. 

If your rope is rough, put a collar on the neck instead of the loop, 
and fasten your strap to it. Use a smooth, soft strap, so as not to chafe 
the foot where it passes around it. 

Shoeing. 

If we examine the horse's foot while in the natural state, it will be 
found to be almost round and veiy elastic at the heel, the frog broad, 
plump, and of a soft, yielding character ; the commissures open and well 
defined, the sole concave; the outside crust from the heel to the toe in- 
creased from a slight bevel to an angle of forty-five degrees ; conse-* 
quently, as the foot grows it becomes wider and longer in proportion to 
the amount of horn secreted, and narrower and shorter in proportion to 
the ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and accurately to the 
foot after being dressed down well, it would be found too narrow and 
short for the same foot after the lapse of a few weeks. 

Now if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed firmly to this naturally en- 
larging and elastic hoof, it prevents its natural freedom of expansion 
almost wholly, and does not allow the foot to grow wider at the quarters 
as it grows down, in proportion to the amount of horn grown, as before 
shod ; consequently the foot is changed by the continued restraint of 
the shoe, from a nearly round, healthy foot to a contracted and un- 
healthy condition, as generally seen in horses shod for a few years. 

The principles which should govern in shoeing are few and simple, 
and it is surprising, considering the serious consequences involved, that 
it should be done with so little consideration. The object of the shoer 
should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, to keep the 
foot natural, and this involves first the cutting away of any undue accu- 
mulation of horn, affecting in the least its health and freedom. Second, 
to carry out in the shape of the shoe, that of the foot as nearly as possi- 
ble. Third, to fit and fasten the shoe to the foot so as least to interfere 
with its health, growth and elasticity. 

The preparation of the font requires the cutting away of about the 
proportion of horn which, coming in contact with the ground, would 
have worn off, or which has accumulated since being shod last. If the 
shoes have been on a month, the proportion of horn that was secreted 
in that time is to be removed. If two months, then the proportion of 



SHOEING. 31 

two months' growth. No definite rule can be given ; the judgment 
must be governed by the circumstances of the case. The stronger and 
more rapid the growth of the foot, the more must be cut away ; and the 
weaker and less horn produced, the less to the extremity of simply lev- 
elling the crust a little, the better to conform to the shoe. There is gen- 
erally a far more rapid growth of horn at the toe than at the heels or 
the quarters ; more will be required to be taken off there than off the 
other parts. Therefore shorten the toe and lower the heels until you 
succeed in bringing down the bearing surface of the hoof upon the shoe 
to almost a level with the live horn of the sole. Be careful to make the 
heels level. Having lowered the crust to the necessary extent with the 
buttress or knife, smooth it down level with the rasp. The sole and 
frog detach by exfoliation as it becomes superabundant. The sole, 
therefore, would not need paring were it not for the restraining effect 
of the shoe upon the general functions of the foot, which is liable to 
prevent such detachment of the horn. 

We would be particular, also, in impressing the necessity of not con- 
founding the bars with the substance of the sole, and setting them down 
to the common level with the sole. 

Any man of common sense can see that the bearing of the bars should 
be equal to the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that they offer 
a decided resistance to the contraction of the heels. The cutting away 
of the bars to give the heels an open appearance, is inexcusable, and 
should never be done. In a natural, healthy condition, the frog has a 
line of bearing with the hoof, and by its elastic nature acts as a safe- 
guard to the delicate machinery of the foot immediately over it, and 
helps to preserve the foot in its natural state by keeping the heels 
spread. 

It seems to be wisely intended to give life and health to the foot. 
Permitting the heels to grow down, with the addition of high-heeled 
shoes, raises the frog from its natural position and causes it to shrink 
and harden, and bears, in consequence, an important influence in set- 
ting up a diseased action that usually results in contraction of the foot. 
If the heels are square and high, ar^d the hoof presents rather a long, 
narrow appearance, and is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of con- 
traction going on, and you must not hesitate to dress down thoroughly. 
Do not hesitate because the foot will appear small. Cut away until 
you are well down to the level with the line horn of the sole, and if the 
foot is weak, use the same prudence in not cutting it away too much. 

The sheer must always bear in mind that the sole must not rest on 
the shoe. Let the foot be so dressed down, and the shoe so approxi- 
mate, that the bearing will come evenly upon the crust all the way 



32 THE HORSE. 

around without the sole touching the shoe. This requires the crust to 
be dressed level, and, although well down to the live horn of the sole, it 
should always be left a little higher. The corners between the bars and 
crust should be well pared out, so that there is no danger of the sole 
resting upon the shoe. Presuming that we have said enough on the 
subject of paring, we will now consider 

The Shoe. 

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size, 
weight, fitting, and fastening, as to combine the most advantages of pro- 
tection, and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In weight 
it should be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse. 
The foot should not be loaded with more iron than is necessarj'^ to pre- 
serve it. If the hoof is light, the shoe should be light also ; but if the 
horse work principally on the road, his shoes should be rather heavy. 
In its natural state the foot has a concave sole surface, which seems to 
offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse when travelling. 
Most of the shoes now in use by intelligent shoers are fashioned on this 
principle, and, aside from the advantage of lightness and strength, they 
are considered to be an improvement on the common flat shoe. Geo. 
H. Dadd, veterinary surgeon, said once on the subject of shoeing : " The 
action of concave feet may be compared to that of the claws of a cat, 
or the nails on the fingers and toes of a man ; the nails and toes are ful- 
crums : they grasp, as it were, the bodies with which they come in con- 
tact, and thus they secure a fulcrum of resistance when travelling or 
grasping." Now, in order to preserve the natural mechanical action of 
the horn and sole, the ground surface of the shoe must correspond 
exactly with the ground surface of the foot that is to say, the ground 
surface of the shoe must be levelled cup-fashion ; its outer edge being 
prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the. hoof, while 
the shoe being hollow, it resembles the natural concave form of the sole 
of the foot. 

No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether it be high or 
low heeled, contracted at the heels, lengthened or shortened at the toe, 
or having a concave or convex sole, it matters not ; the ground surface 
of the shoe must be concave. In every other part of the shoe altera- 
tions and deviations from any given rule or form are needed, in conse- 
quence of the ever varying form of the foot, and the condition of the 
same, both as regards health and disease ; but the sole of the foot being 
concave, presents a pattern for the ground surface of the shoe which 
the smith, with all his skill, cannot improve on, and if all such crafts- 



THE SHOK 33 

men were to follow this pattern more closely than they do there would 
be fewer accidents in falling, and a less number of lame horses. The 
shoe should be of equal thickness all the way round, perfectly level on 
the top side, and concave on the ground surface. 

We cannot see the propriety, as given by a standard author, of seat- 
ing all shoes alike, and of carrying them well back at the heel. Seat- 
ing appears to be necessary only for the flat-footed horses, or the inside 
edge of the shoe must be lowered from the possible bearing of the sole, 
and enough to run the picker around between the shoe and hoof, to re- 
move any gravel or foreign matter that may find a lodgment between 
them. If there is much space between the shoe and sole, it invites ac- 
cumulation of gravel, and other substances injurious to the foot. 

If the seating is carried well back, and the shoe is wide at the heels, 
and instead of bearing on a level surface, as they should, come down 
upon this incUued plane, it tends to crowd them together. If the shoe 
is not wide in web, and the foot strong and arched, it may be made per- 
fectly level on top. At all events, that portion upon which rests the 
heels and crust should be level and accurately fitted. The shoe should 
be continued around toward the heel so far as the crust extends, as 
large as the full unrasped hoof, but no part must project beyond it, ex- 
cepting at the extreme of the heel. The expansion of the heel and the 
growth of the foot requires that the shoe should be long enough and 
wide enough at the heels to allow for the natural growth of the foot 
during the time the shoe is expected to remain on the foot ; for, as the 
foot grows, the shoe is drawn forward, until it loses its original propor- 
tion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be a quarter 
of an inch wider and longer than the extreme bearing of the heels, and 
the nail holes should be punched coarse and in the centre of the web. 
In the hind shoe, four in the outside and two or three well forward in 
the inside toe, as found necessary to retain the shoe. 

The manner of fastening the shoe is what really affects the foot, and 
what requires the most special attention in shoeing ; for the foot, being 
elastic, expands in the same proportion on the rough as on the nicely 
fitted shoe. It is the number and position of the nails that really affect 
the foot. If they are placed well back in the quarters, four on a side, 
as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe as if in 
a vice, which utterly prevents the free action necessary to its health. 
Inflammation of the sensitive laminae is produced, which causes con- 
traction and the consequent derangement of the whole foot. 

If the free, natural expansion of the foot and the spreading of the 
quarters in proportion to the growth of the hoof is prevented by the 
nailing of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust 



34 THE HORSE. 

and coffin bone will result, and ultimately create so much diseased 
action of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular disease. Shoes 
may be securely fastened without causing such mischief, if the follow- 
ing method of nailing is observed : Drive four nails on the outside of 
the foot, the same as common, while you drive two or three well for- 
ward in the toe of the opposite side, which leaves the inside quarter 
virtually free and independent of the shoe, for the outside of the foot 
being the only part fastened, carries the shoe with it at every expansion, 
while the inside, being unattached, expands independently of it, and 
the foot is left as nearly as possible in a state of nature so far as its 
powers of expansion are concerned. It may be asked, will this style of 
nailing hold shoes on the feet of horses of all work ] We answer, yes ; 
experience has fully demonstrated that seven nails will hold the shoe on 
ordinary feet for any purpose, if the shoes are properly fitted, for a 
period of from four to seven weeks, which is as long as shoes should bo 
on without resetting. If shoes are made with little chps, to keep them 
from being shoved back under the foot, they will require less nailing. 
If seven nails are found to be necessary, have the three on the inside 
drove in the space of an inch and a quarter, well forward in the toe, 
though in most cases two will be found sufficient for the purpose. Turn 
down the clinchers snugly. 

Nothing should be done for what might be called " fancy." The hoof 
should never be filed or rasped above the clinches, as the hoof is cov- 
ered bv a peculiar enamel that prevents the too rapid evaporation of 
moisture from the horn, and ought not to be disturbed. The practice 
of rasping, filing or sand-papering the hoof to make it look nice, only 
produces mischief, and should never be allowed. Horses kept for light 
driving and irregular work, particularly those having rather square, 
upright heels, should be shod on the one-sided nailing principle, as the 
feet of such horses are much disposed to contraction. 

So far as observation and experience teaches us, we find proper 
attention to paring down the feet and fastening the shoes so as not to 
interfere with the free expansion of the hoof (as above) will remedy con- 
traction ; though attention to growing down the crust, and the use of 
shoes that are 'slightly convex or levelled out, so as to have a tendency 
to spread the heels when the weight of the body is thrown upon the 
foot, and fastening on the principle of the inside quarter being left free, 
is regarded as much better ; but the blacksmith must be a good work- 
man to fashion and fit a shoe in this way properly. The nails should 
not be driven higher in the crust than seven-eighths of an inch, and not 
so deep as to possibly strike through to the quick. If the foot is light, 
and shows a thin delicate crust, the nails should be small and not driven 



MECHANIC OR SAFETY SHAFTS. 35 

high or deep into the horn. As a rule, the fewer and smaller the nails 
used, provided they secure the shoe to the foot, the better. Shoes 
should be re-set as often as once a month, though in some cases they 
need not require setting so often. It is positively necessary at six, and 
must not be neglected longer than seven or eight weeks, if you would 
preserve the natural shape of the foot. 

, Interfering. 

To prevent interfering, know first what part of the foot hits the 
opposite ankle. This you can do by wrapping the ankle with a white 
cloth, which cover with some kind of coloring matter over where the 
opposite foot hits ; then drive the horse until you can discover by some 
of the coloring matter adhering what portion of the crust hits the ankle. 
Remove this portion of the crust, and have the shoe set well under the 
foot, but careful)}'" fitted, so as to support the foot safely by bearing on 
the bar and heel. The hoof should be pared lowest on the outside, to 
turn the ankle that the other hoof may pass clear. Yet if the inside 
sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and the inside is found to be 
actually lower than the outside. Shoes, to prevent interfering, should 
be light, or narrow web on the inside, with thi'ee nail-holes near the toe. 
They should be straight at the point where they come in contact with 
the opposite ankle. By adhering to this principle strictly of paring the 
foot and fitting and fastening the shoe, you will prevent a recurrence of 
tiie difficulty. Shoes, to prevent overreaching, should be long, and for 
the forward feet heavy, especially at the heels ; and for the hind feet 
light, with heavy toes. The hoof should well pared at the toe. 

Mechanic or Safety Shafts. 

Get three scantlings or poles of good tough timber of about four 
inches in diameter, and fourteen feet in length each. Put down two of 
these, so as to bring them two feet apart at one end and thirteen at the 
other. Now lay the other pole across on the ends of the others widest 
apart, about six inches from the ends. Mark and halve them together. 
Then bore a hole through both pieces at each corner so fitted, and bolt 
them firmly together. To fix the other ends get a piece of tire iron, 
four feet long, and bend it in the form of a breast collar, the rounding 
side in, so as to have each end extend back on the inside of the poles 
ten or twelve inches, and fit up nicely to the wood. Have two holes 
punched or drilled tlirough each end of the iron, by which to bolt it 
firmly to the poles. Then drive staples into or near the ends. 



36 THE HORSE. 

To finish the other ends, take two pieces of iron one foot each in 
]enoth, and an inch in diameter, flat one end, and punch through two 
holes. Work down the other ends to a sharp point ; bend down the 
ends so sharpened about six inches, in the form of a half circle ; bolt 
these irons under the ends of the poles, the sharp ends pointing down 
and back, forming dogs, something like those on the ends of sleigh run- 
ners, to prevent the sleigh running back. Now harness your horse into 
this arrangement, taking the precaution to wind the irons around the 
ends with an old piece of cloth, and strengthening the harness, if at all 
likely to break, by tying a piece of rope around with the breeching and 
around the body, as may be thought necessary. Though, perhaps the 
best way to hold the shafts, as we will call them, nicely up to the neck, 
is by bringing a strong rope or strap over the neck and fastening around 
the iron near the wheel. It must be remembered that before hitching 
the horse into this, he should be subjected to the most thorough training 
of the mouth with the war-bridle; when hitched, get behind the cross- 
piece, holding the reins. If the horse attempts to go back, the iron 
liooks on the ends of the poles settle into the ground, making it impossi- 
ble to do so. Should he attempt to turn short round, the pole extends 
out and back from the shoulders at almost right angles, preventing a 
movement in that direction. If he attempts to rear, the restraint of the 
breeching becomes a lifting lever upon the hind parts, and the horse is 
at once disabled. Now drive the horse forward to the cars, putting 
your foot upon the cross-piece, and holding the horse to his position 
when showing fear, to the end of forcing him up to the object of fear. 

It must be remembered that a horse, once really frightened at an ob- 
ject which is likely to produce such great and sudden fear as an engine 
and cars, can seldom, with anything like ordinary effort, be made so 
regardless of them when suddenly and unexpectedly moved near him, 
as to be made at all safe for family driving, or purposes involving much 
responsibility when brought into possible proximity with them. But if 
the animal is much prized, and rendering him safe and gentle much of 
an object, go to work with a will, following up one advantage after 
another, driving the horse often perseveringly around near the cars 
until successful. But it must be remembered that fear is the least 
voluntary and least controllable to the reason of the feelings, when 
once really aroused, and Avhen the nervous system is prostrated by its 
force and continuance, it is the most difficult of all manageable habits 
to overcome. There is a limit to the advantages of skillful manage- 
ment in this respect, so far as absolute success is concerned. It is not 
possible to make a horse of any spirit absolutely fearless, and the con- 
sideration which should govern an honest desire to hit the mark best is 



TO LEARN A HORSE TO APPEAR INTELLIGENT. 37 

to give a correct understanding of what it is practicable to do. My advice 
is, if the horse is really bad, do not trust yourself or family behind 
him. The risk is too great to be borne, or advised to be hazarded in the 
hands of most men. 

Corns. 

Corns appear in the angles of the hoof near the heel. They are gen- 
erally caused by the shoe being worn too long, causing the shell of the 
hoof to grow over the shoe, which throws the weight upon the sole, or 
the angles between the bars and crust are not kept properly dressed out 
— for any accumulation of horn between the bars and crust which would 
prevent the free elasticity of the sole at the heel must increase the risk 
of producing corns, by the liability there is of causing the sensitive 
laminae beneath the edges of the coffin bone to become bruised, owing 
to the undue pressure it may be subjected to for want of elasticity in the 
horny sole. When the sensitive laminae is thus bruised, the horny sub- 
stance of which the sole is composed is secreted in less quantities, the 
blood from the ruptured vessels mingles with the imperfectly secreted 
matter, and as the process is going on it soon makes its appearance on 
the outside. 

To Cure Corns. 

Cut the corn well down, but not quite to the quick ; fit the shoe so as 
not to press upon the part, then saturate with fine gum which is found 
exuding from trees when cut. Fill the part niftely with tow, then put 
on the shoe, remembering that the shoe must be so fitted as not to 
oblige the part to support but very little, if any, of the weight of the 
horse. We have had horses troubled with corns treated in this way 
with very good effect. Horses with corns must be oftener and more 
carefully shod than those free from them. In shoeing, strive to keep 
the form of the foot natural. Be positive in the enforcement of this 
rule ; and lastly, have the shoes se-set at least every six or seven weeks. 

To Learn a Horse to Appear Intelligent. 

As many of our scholars would like to know how to teach their 
horses tricks we will explain how it may be done. Teaching your 
horse a few tricks serves , greatly to keep an interest in him and makes 
him appear fearless, intelligent and affectionate. In teaching a horse 
tricks it is best to give him one or two lessons daily of half or three- 
quarters of an hour each. 



33 THE HORSE. 

To Come at the Crack of the Whip, or Word. 

Put on the Comanche bridle, stand off a few feet, holding the haltei 
in your left hand, the whip in the right. Crack the whip and say, 
"Come here, sir!" He does not know what this means, but you show 
him by pulling on the halter a little, which he will obey by moving 
towards you a few steps. This movement you thank him for by feeding 
him something that he likes from your hand, and by petting and caress- 
ing him upon the head and neck ; then repeat in the same way, reward- 
ing hira as before, and so continue until he will walk up to you every 
time you crack the whip or say, " Come here, sir," which he will soon 
learn to do. Each time he comes to you talk to him kindly, and do not 
fail to give him his reward of corn or something he likes. You can now 
take off the halter and turn him loose, and repeat until he fully compre- 
hends that the way to avoid the whip is to come to you, which, with the 
encouragement of rewarding him for so doing, will soon inspire him 
■with confidence, and he will come to you and follow like a dog. Be 
very cautious about the use of the whip or harsh language, remembei- 
ing that perfect, cheerful obedience is your object, and that can bo 
secured only by great patience and gentleness. 

To Make a Bow. 

Take a pin in the right hand, between the thumb and forefinger, and 
stand at his left side near the hips, tell hira to make a bow. Then prick- 
ing him very lightly on the small of the back, this will make him move 
his head ; keep pricking him until you get the right motion of the head, 
then caress him where you have been pricking him. Or take your pin 
as before and stand up to his shoulder and prick him on the breast 
lightly, as if a fly were biting, which to relieve he will bring down his 
head, which you will accept as a bow, and will reward by caressing on 
the side of the neck. Then repeat until he will bring down his head at 
the least motion of your hand towards his breast or any other signal 
that he will understand readily. 

To say No. 

Stand by your horse's shoulder, tell him to shake his head, at the 
same time prick him hghtly on the withers or neck, which will cause 
him to shake his head as if to drive away a fly. You then caress as 
before, and repeat until he will shake his head at the least indication 
of your touching him with the pin. You can train your horse so nicely 



TO SIT UP. 39 

in this way in a short time as to cause him to make a bow or shake his 
head by merely turning the hand a little or moving it slightly towards 
him. 

To Lie Down. 

To teach a horse to lie down quickly you must lay him down a few 
times with the rope and strap, as described in •• Tampering with Vicious 
Horses." When down treat your horse with great attention and kind- 
ness. After putting him down a few times in this way he will usually 
lie down in a short time by taking up one foot and holding it in your 
hand, asking him to lie down ; he will soon come down. When he will 
come on his knees by taking his foot in your hand, stoop as if intending 
to take it up, saying, " Lie down, sir ! " Then make him come down 
by a motion of the hand, and finally by simply telling him to lie down. 

In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress and reward him for 
lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you want and finding 
himself paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious to get dovA'n for 
the reward as you are to have him do so. 

To Sit Up. 

When your horse will lie down readily you can then learn him to sit 
up, like a dog, easily. First, cause him to lie down, having on a com- 
mon bridle, with the reins over his neck ; then step behind him and 
step firmly on his tail with the right foot, holding the reins in the left 
hand while with the right bear down firmly on the hips ; thus in position, 
say, " Get up, sir." The horse rising from a recumbent position, first 
turns on his belly, throws out his forward feet and raises himself on them, 
springs forward and rises on his hind feet. Now standing on his tail 
firmly, and pulling back upon the reins when he attempts to spring for- 
ward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you will hold him sitting 
up. Hold him firmly a few seconds, talking to him kindly, before per- 
mitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few times, when instead of 
springing up, he will sit on his haunches a short time, which you are to 
accept as complying with your wishes. 

Always say " Sit up, sir," every time, and hold him in the position as 
long as he will bear, by fondling and talking to him kindly, and your 
horse will soon learn to sit up for you as long as you please. But if 
your horse is heavy and strong it will be necessary to resort to other 
means to hold him down at first. This you do by putting on his neck a 
common collar, and causing him to lie down ; then fasten a halter-strap 
to each hind foot and bring forward through the collar and draw up 



40 2'i^J^' HOUSE. 

close, which will bring the hind feet well forward. Then step behind as 
before, and when he attem{)ts to rise on his hind feet he will find it im- 
possible to do so, because you hold them forward by those straps. Re- 
peat two or three times, when it will not be necessary to resort to such 
force. 

To Learn a Horse How to Dance. 

Put on the Comanche bridle ; take hold of the cord some four or five 
feet from the horse s head, and with a whalebone whip tap him on the 
shin or ankle until he lifts his foot, then caress him, and do the same 
with the other ; then make him raise first one foot, then the other, and 
caress, him ; then make him raise them several times, until he moves his 
whole body by the motion of the whip to the time of music. 

To Learn to Waltz. 

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his chest and 
fasten the bridle reins to it, the left rein much the tightest, bringing his 
head well round to the left side. Then make him move forward, when 
he follows his head, and every time as he is turning his head from you 
give him a sharp cut with the whip, which will make him jump round 
quickly until his head comes around to you again. Then you should 
caress and encourage him by talking kindly. He will then be slower to 
move his head from you, but you must continue with the whip every 
time the horse's hind parts are to you and his head from you, caressing 
every few minutes, until he understands to move at the motion of the 
whip. 

To Teach a Horse to Kiss You. 

Teach him first to take an apple, or something that he likes, out of 
your hand ; when gradually raising the hand nearer the mouth at each 
repetition until you require him to take it from your mouth, holding it 
with your hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. He will soon 
learn to reach his nose up to your mouth, first to get his apple, but 
finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until your horse 
understands and he will do the trick thoroughly. 

To Shake Hands. 

Tie a short strap to the forward foot below the fetlock. Stand 
directly in front of the horse, holding the end of the strap in your hand, 
then say, " Shake hands, sir," and immediately pull upon the strap, 



TO SHAKE HANDS. 41 

which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept as shak- 
ing hands, thanking him for it by caressing and rubbing his leg, and so 
repeat until when you make the demand he will bring the foot forward 
in anticipation of having it pulled up. This is a very easy trick to teach 
a horse. By a little practice a horse may be easily trained to approach, 
make a bow, shake hands, follow like a dog, lie down, sit up, etc., 
which makes him appear both polite and intelligent. 

Never loose courage or confidence in your ability because you do not 
bring about good results easily. To accomplish anything of importance, 
remember, requires no ordinary resolution and perseverance. There, 
will be no credit or importance attached to mastering and managing 
bad horses if not difficult and apparently dangerous. No duty requires 
more firmness of purpose in the control of the passions, or more fidelity 
to the principles of kindness and truth, than that of horsemanship. 



RECIPES 



The following recipes have been gathered from sources entitled to the 
fullest confidence as remedies of great value, and some of them at an 
unusual cost ; and we present them with the hope of their being duly- 
appreciated : 

It is well to remember that to keep horses in health is much more im- 
portant, less troublesome, and requires less skill than to cure sick ones. 
Abuse, overwork, and exposure, are to be guarded against, if the seri- 
ous consequences of Inflammation of the Lungs, Colic, Founder, etc., 
are to be avoided ; and if you have a sick horse, be cautious about 
doctoring too much until you are sure of what ought to be done. 

Worm Ball. 

Assafoetida 4 oz., gentian 2 oz., strong mercurial ointment 1 oz. Make 
into mass with honey. Divide into 16 balls. Give 1 or taore every 
morning. 

Furgrative Ball. 

Aloes 1 oz., cream tartar and Castile soap, i oz. Mix with molasses 
to make a ball. 

Fever Ball. 

Emetic tartar and camphor, each ^ oz., and nitre 2 ounces. Mix 
with linseed meal and molasses to make 8 balls, and give 1 twice a day. 

Diuretic Ball. 

Castile soap, scraped fine, and powdered rosin, each 3 teaspoonfuls ; 
powdered nitre 4 teaspoonfuls, oil of juniper 1 small teaspoonful, honey 
a sufficient quantity to make into a ball. 

Cougrb Ball. 

Pulverized ipecac, ^ oz , camphor 2 oz., squills, ^ oz. Mix with 
honey to form into mass, and divide into 8 balls. Give 1 everv morning. 

(42) 



RECIPES. 45 

with the water which the horse drinks. A bran mash should be given 
every other day. When the disease assumes a chronic form, which is 
seldom the case, injecting the nose with a weak solution of alum will 
remove the discharge. Young horses are very apt to have swelled legs 
unless they get walking exercise for a short time every day. This^is 
owing partly to the weakness of the circulation, and partly to a deterio- 
rated state of the blood having been engendered during the horse's sick- 
ness. 

Cataract. 

This can be removed from a horse's eye with finely pulverized burnt 
alum, blown into the horse's eye through a goose quill. Or take oil of 
wintergreen, get a small glass syringe, and inject a few drops into the 
eye, and after 3 days repeat the application. 

lioose Bo^vels. 

In cases of chronic diarrhoea, a good remedy is to put powdered char- 
coal in the feed, and if the disease depends on a digestive function — the 
liver included— give a few doses of the following : Powdered golden seal 
2 oz., ginger 1 oz., salt 1 oz. Dose — \ an oz. twice a day. 

Corns. 

There are no fixed rules for the treatment of horses with corns. Corns 
occur to horses with the best of feet. The high-heeled and contracted 
quartered, the low as well as thebroard, all occasionally become afflicted 
with this annoying disease, the common cause being the worst of shoe- 
ing. Success in the treatment of corns must rest entirely upon the in- 
telligent understanding of the shoer. If he is master of the art he will 
see at a glance what parts of the foot require to be removed.* In the 
preparation of the foot, no matter what its form, so long as there is no 
reason to suspect suppuration, no " paring out the corn " should be per- 
mitted. When such officious exploration is permitted, the healthy con- 
dition of the foot is interfered with ; the scooping out of the horn at the 
angle formed by the bar and wall interferes with the natural growth of 
these parts, causes them to tilt over and to press directly upon the seat 
of the corn, thus inflicting injuries which frequently terminate in sup- 
puration. Let the horse's foot be properly adjusted in all its parts, 
always leaving as broard and level a bearing as possible. With regard 
to the shoe, unless the condition of the horse's foot requires some spe- 
cial modification for its protection, we prefer a plain shoe, a small clip at 
the toe, moderately broad web, and of uniform thickness from toe to 
heel. 



46 THE HORSE. 

Cribbing-, 

There is supposed to be no remedy for this habit, but a person who 
has tried it says that a horse can be cured of crib-biting by nailing a 
sheepskin, wool side up, wherever there is any chance for the horse to 
bite. 

Callous on Colt. 

TaVe 1 oz, of bitter sweet, 1 oz. of skunk cabbage, 1 oz. of blood root ; 
steep and mix with lard ; make an ointment, and apply once or twice a 
day. This is considered a sure remedy. 

Coug^li. 

Take powdered squills 1 oz., ginger 2 oz., cream of tartar 1 oz. ; mix 
well, and give a spoonful every morning in bran. Another remedy is to 
give the animal a feed of sunflower seed. 

Hoof Dressing:. 

A good preparation, and one that will give the horse's hoof a rapid 
and healthy growth, is to take of oil of tar 1 pt., beeswax 1^ lbs., whale 
oil 4 pts. The above ingredients should be mixed and melted together 
over a slow fire, and applied to all parts of the hoof at least once or 
twice a week. 

Inflammation of IBye. 

Keep the horse quiet, and dress the eye repeatedly with the following 
lotion : Take of tincture of opium 2 oz., and of water 1 pt. ; mix. 
Much depends upon a proper application of the lotion, and a most ad- 
vantageous proceeding is to attach several folds of linen rag to the 
headstall so as to cover the eye, and by being repeatedly saturated it 
will keep up constant evaporation, as well as a cooling effect. The 
horse should also be removed from excessive light. When the inflam- 
mation has been subdued, the opacity — more or less of which is sure to 
remain — must be treated by the application of either iodide of potassium 
or nitrate of silver, prepare thus : Take of iodide of potassium 20 grs.; 
water 1 oz ; mix; or take of nitrate of silver 5 grs., distilled water 1 
ounce; mix. To be applied daily by means of a camel's hair brush sat- 
urated with the lotion and drawn gentl}'- across the eye. 

Brittle Feet. 

In a large majority of cases brittleness of hoof owes its origin to mis- 
management of the feet, and especially to excessive moisture, the use of 
swabs, the bath tub, etc. In all cases where the hoof is naturally brit- 
tle the feet should be kept dry rather than wet. If coHvenient, we 
would remove the shoes, and rasp the wall mederately sh©rt and round 



RECIPES. 47 

at its margin. Having cut the hair off short around the entire coronet, 
a little iodide of mercury ointment should be rubbed in. This will 
cause a rapid growth of horn. The horse should be kept during the 
clay in a roomy box having a layer of tan or sawdust spread over the 
floor. When removed to his stall at night the feet should be washed 
clean, and, after being wiped dry, every part of the hoof should be freely 
anointed with the following composition : Take of oil of tar and bees- 
wax, of each 4 oz., honey and beef suet, of each 2 oz., whale oil 8 ounces ; 
melt the beeswax and beef suet first, then add the honey and other in- 
gredients, stirring the whole until nearly cold. All sousing of the feet 
must be avoided. 

Sand Crack in Foot. 

This, as its name imports, is a crack or division of the hoof from 
above downwards, and into which sand and dirt are too apt to insinuate 
tliemselves. It occurs both in the fore and the hind feet. In the fore 
feet it is usually found in the inner quarter, but occasionally in the 
outer quarter, because there is the principal stress or effort toward ex- 
pansion in the foot, and the inner quarter is not so strong as the outer. 
In the hind feet the crack is almost invariably found in the front, be- 
cause in the digging of the toe into the ground, in the act of drawing, 
the principal stress is in front. If the crack be superficial — does not 
penetrate through the horn — it will cause no lameness, yet must not be 
neglected. If the crack has extended to the sensible parts, and you can 
see any fungus flesh, with a small drawing knife remove the edges of 
the cracked horn that press upon it. Touch the fungus with caustic, 
dip a roll of tow or linen in tar, and bind it very firmly over it. Tlie 
whole foot is to be kept in a bran poultice for a few days, or until the 
lameness is removed. A shoe may then be put on, so as not to press on 
the diseased part. The pledget of tow may now be removed, the crack 
filled with the composition, and the animal may be then turned into 
some soft meadow. 

Punimice Foot. 

This is indicated by the hoofs spreading more and more and losing 
their shape. A properly constructed round (bar) shoe is the only relia- 
ble remedy, for it can be worn indefinitely without detriment to any 
part of the foot. The main object of treatment is to protect and pre- 
serve the deformed sole. The shoe must be chambered so as not to 
touch the sole, and no paring away of the latter must be allowed. Keep 
the feet clean and dry as possible. 

Fracture. 

Severe lameness is sometimes caused by the fracture of 1 or 2 bones 



48 THE HORSE. 

on the inside of the hoof— namely, the coffin of the navicular bone. Ipi. 
closed as these bones are on the inside of the hoof, and fenced in laten- 
ally by the cartilages, it is often difficult to detect, and we are obliged 
to depend on the general symptoms : the horse halts exceedingly, the 
foot is hot, and the pain extreme. As these bones are confined in the 
hoof no displacement can take place, therefore no crepitm can be de- 
tected. In all cases of fracture of either bone, a careful examination 
will, however, reveal the existence of a swelling at the back of the heels, 
immediately above the frog, and more or less fulness over the coronet 
of the foot. The treatment may be indicated in a few words — rest,, 
absolute rest, is all-important. So long as the horse exhibits evidence 
of acute pain whenever his weight is imposed on the lame limb, the 
quieter he is kept the better. "Warm baths, or cloths frequently moist- 
ened with a mixture of equal parts of alcohol and water, are useful 
adjuncts. It may be added that, in all cases of serious injury of the 
stifle, the hip-joint, or the pelvis, the horse is able to bring his heels 
" fair and square " upon the floor. In fracture of either the navicular 
or coffin bone, lameness sometimes continues long after recovery. It 
may turn out permanent. 

To Cure Founder. 

Clean out the bottom of the foot thoroughly, hold up firmly in a hor- 
izontal position, and pour in a tablespoonful of spirits of turpentine, if 
the cuvity will hold that much ; if not, pour in what it will hold with- 
out running over ; touch the turpentine with a red hot iron (this will 
set it on fire) ; hold the hoof firmly in this position till it burns out, and 
care must be taken that none runs on the hair of the hoof, lest the skin 
be burned. If all the feet are affected, burn turpentine in all of them. 
Relief will speedily follow, and the animal will be ready for service in a 
short time. 2. The seeds of the sunflower— a pint of the whole seed 
— given in his feed, immediately the founder is discovered. 3. By 
standing the foundered horse up to his belly in water. 
Galled Back. 

So soon as an abrasion is discovered on the back of a horse, the ani- 
mal should be excused from duty for a few days ; the abraded parts 
should be dressed twice daily with a portion of the tincture of aloes 
and myrrh. This simple treatment will soon heal the parts. Should 
there be no abrasion, but simply a swelling attended with heat, pain 
and tenderness, the parts should be frequently sponged with cold water. 
Occasionally the skin undergoes the process of hardening (induration). 
This is a condition of the parts known to the farriers of old as " sit- 
fast," and the treatment is as follows: Procure 1 oz. of iodine, and 



RECIPES. 49 

smear the indurated spot with a portion of the same twice daily. Some 
cases of galled back and shoulders are due to negligence and abuse • 
yet many animals, owing to a peculiarity of constitution, will chafe, as 
the saying is, in those parts which come in contact with the collar, and 
neither human foresight nor mechanical means can prevent the same. 

Kicking: in Stall. 

To prevent your horse from kicking in the stall, fasten a short trace- 
chain, about 2 feet long, by a strap to each hind foot. A better way is 
to have the stalls made wide enough so that the horse can turn in them 
easily. Close them with a door or bars, and turn the animal loose. 
After a while he will forget the habit, and stand tied without further 
trouble. 

Flies on Horses. 

As a preventive of horses being teased by flies, take 2 or 3 small 
handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour 2 or 3 quarts of cold water ; 
let it infuse for one night, and pour the whole next morning into a 
kettle, and let it boil for a ^ of an hour. When it becomes cold it will 
be fit for use. No more is required than to moisten a sponge, and, be- 
fore the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts which are most 
irritable be smeared over with the liquor — namely, between and upon 
the ears, the neck, the flanks, etc. Not only the lady or gentleman who 
rides out for pleasure will derive pleasure from the walnut leaves thus 
prepared, but the coachman, the wagoner, and all others who use horses 
during the summer. Or take smart weed and soak it in water, and in 
the morning apply it to the horse, all over him, with a sponge. A de- 
coction of quassia chips, made by boiling them in water, has also been 
recommended. 

Or ease. 

This is a white, offensive discharge from the skin of the heels. Wash 
the part well with warm soap-suds twice a day, and if the swelling be 
great apply a poultice to it ; when the sores are cleansed touch them 
with a rag or feather dipped in a solution of chloride of zinc, 1 grain to 
the ounce of water. 

Inflammation of Kidneys. 

Symptoms: Gradual loss of flesh, pain across the back, impaired 
action of the hind extremities, and the frequent passing of urine, which 
is very highly colored. In treating this affection, the horse should be 
allowed perfect rest, and he should also have a generous diet of easily 
digested food, and plenty of mucilaginous drinks. The loins may be 
rubbed every third or fourth day with mustard, and 1 drachm of tartar 



50 THE HORSE. 

emetic given every night. This medicine can be conveniently adminis- 
tered mixed with the food. 

'Warts on Horse's Nose. 
Dissolve ^ lb. of alum in a quart of water ; with a brush, or cloth wet 
the warts twice each day for 4 days, and they will disappear. Another 
remedy is to smear the warts with salted butter. 
To Cure IVarts. 

. The safest and most effectual caustic for destroying warts is chromic 
acid. Having first picked off the rough outer surface of the warts so 
as to make them bleed, apply, by means of a small wooden spatula, a 
little of the dry acid, rubbing it well in. This will cause a free dis- 
charge of watery fluid from the surface. In a few days the w^art is 
converted into a tough, leather-like substance, which ultimately falls off, 
generally leaving a healthy sore, which soon heals. 
Worms in Horses. 
1. Give every morning, one hour before feeding, 3 drs. of sulphate of 
iron and two drs. of assafoedita; and every night, for one week, throw 
up an injection of 1 oz. oil of turpentine and 10 oz. of linseed oil. Green 
food is to be preferred. 2. White ash bark burnt to ashes and made 
into a rather very strong ley ; then mix ^ a pt. of it with 1 pt. of warm 
water, and give all 2 or 3 times daily. 

Contracted Tendons. 

First try the effect of lowering the heels a little more than the toe at 
each shoeing, and appl3'ing a shoe with a plate projecting an inch or 
two in front of the toe. If there is much tenderness of the back sin- 
ews on pressure, this form of shoeing must be avoided until that has 
been removed. The thickened tendons must be rubbed daily with a 
mixture in equal parts of strong iodine ointment and blue ointment, 
until blistering takes place, when it may be discontinued until the 
effects have passed off. The horse should have a yard or small paddock 
to run in where he is not very likely to be excited to vigorous or irreg- 
ular action, or, if kept in-doors, let it be in a roomy box, and give a 
moderate amount of walking exercise daily* Should several months of 
this sort of treatment fail to restore in part, it may be advisable, per- 
haps, to have the back sinews cut through. 
Hoof-Bound. 

Cut down several lines from the coronet to the too all around the 
hoof, and fill the cuts with tallow and soap mixed ; take off the shoes, 
and (if you can spare him) turn the animal into a wet meadow, whero 



RECIPES. 51 

his feet will be kept moist. Never remove the ?ole nor burn the lines 
down, as this increases instead of diminishing the evil. 

Cracked Hoof -Quarter. 

Many plans have been devised by which to heal a quarter crack — 
such as scoring with a knife, blistering, cutting with a sharp, hot iron, 
riveting and the like, all which, in many cases, have proved a failure, 
if the following directions are adopted, the fore feet will be sound in 
3 months. Above the crack, and next to the hair, cut with your knife 
an incision ^ inch long, crosswise of the ciack, and about ^ inch deep. 
Now from the incision draw a line ^ inch each side, parallel with the 
crack, down to the shoe ; then with your knife follow those lines, and 
cut through the enamel or crust of the foot. Now there is a piece of 
the crust to be taken out. This is done by loosening the top of the 
piece next to the hair with your knife, then with your forceps take hold 
of the piece and pull it off; that leaves a space of ^ inch of the crust 
taken out from the hair down to the shoe. Fill the cavity with tar, and 
lace on a soft piece of leather to keep the tar in its place. 

Keep the animal quiet for 3 or 4 days, and he is ready to drive, but it 
is best not to use him until the foot is perfectly sound. Shoe with a 
bar shoe, leaving some spring to the heel, so it will not bear hard upon 
the weak quarter, and in 3 months you will have a sound foot. 

To Deodorize Horse Stables. 

Sawdust, wetted with sulphuric acid, diluted with 40 parts of water, 
and distributed about horse stables, will, it is said, remove the disagree- 
able ammoniacal smell, the sulphuric acid combining with the ammonia 
to form a salt. Chloride of lime slowly evolves chlorine, which will do 
the same thing, but then the chlorine smells worse than the ammonia. 
Sulphuric acid, on the contrary, is perfectly inodorous. The mixture 
must be kept in shallow earthenware vessels. The sulphuric acid used 
alone, either diluted or strong, would absorb more or less of the ammo- 
nia, but there would be danger of spilling it about, and causing serious 
damage; and, beside this, the sawdust offers a large surface to the 
floating gas. 

Itch. 

To cure a horse affected with the itch, first reduce his daily allowance 
of food, putting him on a low diet, and then givQ him a teaspoonful of a 
mixture of equal parts of sulphur and antimony, and at the end of a 
week or 10 days the sores will have disappeared, and the horse will bo 
covered with a fine coat of new hair. 



52 i'UE HORSE. 

Displaced. K.nec-Pa,n* 

Feed the horse well on oats, barley, and sound hay ; give him a 
drachm of powdered phosphate of iron daily in his food ; keep in a 
stall with a perfectly smooth and level floor, and not less than 5^ or 6 
feet wide ; apply a shoe with a bar welded to the toe, projecting 2 or 3 
inches, and then let it be turned up ; rub the joint with an ointment 
made of 1 drachm of powdered cantharides to | an oz. of lard, repeat- 
ing the application next day if it has not blistered. When a blister 
rises, wash it off with soap and warm water, and then anoint the part 
daily with lard, until the scab and other effects have passed off, when 
another blister may be applied. 

Inflammation and Si^w^ellingr of the Leg^s. 

Rest, and the application of an active blister to the swollen parts, will 
effect a cure. No better blister can be used than the following : Take 
resin and black pitch, each 4 parts, beeswax 3 parts, sweet oil 11 parts, 
Spanish flies 6 parts, euphorbium 2 parts. Melt the resin, pitch, and 
wax first, then add the oil, and when thoroughly mixed remove from 
the fire ; lastly, add very slowly the powdered flies and euphorbium. 
Before the blister is applied the hair should be cut close off, and the 
skin if scurfy, washed with Castile soap and warm water, after which 
it must be thoroughly dried, and the blistering ointment rubbed in for 
10 minutes. After applying the blister, the horse's head should be tied 
up to prevent his biting the part, or rubbing it with his nose. At the 
expiration of 2 or 3 days most horses may be set at liberty. In about 
a week rub sweet oil over the blistered part. 
Liampas. 

This consists in a swelling of the first bar of the upper palate. It is 
cured by rubbing the swelling 2 or 3 times a day with \ an ounce of 
alum and the same quantity of double refined sugar mixed with a little 
honey. 

To Cure Broken F^eg-s, 

Instead of summarily shooting the horse, in the greater number of 
fractures it is only necessary to partially sling the horse by means of a 
bi'oad piece of sail or other strong cloth, placed under the animal's belly, 
furnished with 2 breechings and 2 breast-girths, and, by means of ropes 
and pulleys attached to a cross beam above, he is elevated or lowered, 
as may be required. By the adoption of this plan every facility is 
allowed for the satisfactory treatment of the fractures. 

Liiniment for Galled Bacic of Horses. 

"White lead moistened with milk. When milk is not to be procured 



RECIPES. 43 

IVound Balsam. 

Gum benzoin in powder, 6 oz., balsam of tolu in powder, 3 oz., gum 
storax, 2 oz., frankincense in powder, 2 oz., gum mj^rrb in powder, 2 oz., 
socotorine aloes in powder, 3 oz., alcohol, 1 gal. Mix them all together 
and put them in a digester, and give them a gentle heat for 3 or 4 days, 
and then strain. 

Sore Breasts. 

This generally occurs in the spring, at the commencement of plough- 
ing. At times tlie fault is in having poor old collars, and not having tlie 
collar properly fitted to the horse's breast; and, at others, the hames are 
either too tight or too loose. There is a great difference in horses 
about getting chafed or galled, and at times it has seemed to be impos- 
sible to keep their breasts from getting sore ; but a thorough applica- 
tion of strong alum water, or white oak bark, to the breast of the 
animal, 3 days before going to work, will toughen them so that they 
will not get sore. Another excellent plan is, when you let your team 
rest for a few moments during work, to raise the collar and pull it a 
little forward, and rub the breast thoroughly with your naked hand. 

Bigr ISead. 

When this disease occurs, every care must be devoted to improving 
the general health. Let work be regular and moderate. Have the sta- 
ble clean, dry, and well ventilated. Feed on sound hay and oats, either 
bruised or cooked. Withhold all Indian corn — above all if raw and 
hard. 4 or 5 lbs. of linseed cake may be given daily. Give every day, 
in the feed, 2 drachms of phosphate of iron, and 4 drachms of powdered 
gentian. 

Liquid Blister. 

Take ^ a pint of linseed oil, 1 pint of spirits of turpentine, and 4 oz. 
of aqua ammonia ; shake well and it is fit for use. Apply every third 
hour until it blisters. 

Bigr Leg;. 

To cure, apply the above Liquid Blister every third hour until it 

blisters. In 3 days wash the leg with linseed oil. In 6 days wash it 

clean with soap and water. Repeat every six days until the swelling 

goes down. If there should be any callous left, apply spavin ointment. 

Breaking^ Down. 

The suspensory ligament is attached superiorly to the back part of 
the knee, and iriferiorly to the back of the fetlock joint. It is elastic 
and gives springiness to the limb. In motion and in standing it pas- 
sively supports the horse's fetlock. If this ligament is torn or cut 



44 THE UORSE. 

across, the joint comes to the ground and the toe turns up ; if severely 
strained, the fetlock descends unnaturally low. In breaking down, the 
fetlock is almost completely torn across, and the fetlocks come nearly 
or completely to the ground. Considerable swelling soon ensues above 
and behind tlie fetlock ; there is great pain and symptomatic fever, and 
in severe cases the tendons are generally sprained. When the suspen- 
sory ligament is completely ruptured, and where the injury occurs in 
both fore legs, treatment need not be attempted. In severe cases the 
leg should be immersed in a pail of water, and kept in it for several 
days. When the pain and fever subside, wet bandages may be used. 
A dose of opening medicine should also be given. Bran mashes and 
hay should constitute the horse's diet at the first, and when pain and fever 
subside the diet may be more liberal. In bad cases a high-heeled shoe 
may be applied, or the horse may be slung so as to relieve the affected 
leg of weight. 

Physic Ball. 

Take 2 oz. of aloes, 1 oz. of turpentine, and 1 oz of flour; make into 
a paste with a few drops of water, wrap in a paper, and give them with 
a bailing iron. 

Fulness of SSlood. 

When this condition appears, the eyes appear heavy, dull, red or in- 
flamed, and are frequently closed as if asleep ; the pulse is small and 
oppressed ; the heat of the body somewhat increased ; the legs swell ; 
the hair also rubs off. Horses that are removed from grass to a warm 
stable, and full fed on hay and corn, and not sufficiently exercised, are 
very subject to one or more of these symptoms. By regulating tl)e 
quantity of food given to him, by proper exercise and occasional laxa- 
tives, a cure may soon be effected. 

Nasal Catarrli or Corryza. 

This malady is commonly known as a cold ; it is an inflammation of 
the membrane lining the interior of the nose, and is observed in all the 
domestic animals. Jt occurs frequently after sudden changes in the 
temperature of the atmosphere, which checks or diminishes largely the 
action of the skin. In the early stage the animal is feverish ; the mem- 
brane of the nose is dry and infected ; the animal also frequently 
sneezes and coughs. There is a watery mucous discharge from one or 
both nostrils, which by degrees assumes a yellowish color. In young 
animals this affection is generally associated with swellings beneath the 
jaws. When the disease extends over a longer period than a fortnight it 
assumes a chronic type. Treatment. — Dissolve \ an oz. of nitre in a pint 
of water, and administer this to the patient daily, or it may be mixed 



RECIPES. 53 

oil may be substituted. 1 or 2 cz. mixed at a time will be sufficient for 
a month. 

Hoof OiutKicnt. 

Take ^ a lb. of lard and 4 cz. of resin. Heat them over a slow fire 
until melted ; take the pot off the fire, add 1 oz. of pulverized verdigris ; 
stir well to prevent it from running over. When partially cool add 2 oz. 
of turpentine. Apply it from the hair down 1 inch. Work the horse 
all the time. 

Liniment for Bruises, Sprains, etc. 

Take 1 pint of alcohol, 4 oz. of Castile soap, ^ oz. of gum camphor, ^ 
oz. of sal ammoniac. When these are dissolved, add 1 oz. of laudanum, 
1 oz. origanum, ^ oz. oil of sassafras, and 2 oz. spirits of hartshorn. 
Bathe freely. 

Nasal Gleet. 

or running at the nose — can be cured by taking ^ a lb. of resin, ^ a lb. 
of blue vitriol, and 4 oz. of ginger, grinding them all fine, and giving 
the horse a spoonful 2 or 3 times a day. 

Palsy. 

An attack of this kind is frequently followed by wasting of the affected 
muscles — they lose their rounded form, and present a more or less 
withered aspect. The most common causes of this disease are idlenef^s 
and plethora It may result from accidental violence, as blows or falls. 
Treament — First, apply a blister over the loins. Then give the mare ono 
of the following pills every morning for 8 or 10 days : Take geiitian and 
ginger of each 2 drachms, linseed meal 4 drachms, strychnine 5 grains. 
Mix with water for 1 pill. The diet should be light, and the mare kept 
quiet in the stable, or, better, a box stall. 

Over-Reaching-. 

Make the shoe its natural length, or a trifle longer — with the calk of 
the forward shoes high and the heel calk low. The hoof will then stand 
further forward, and be more removed from the stride of the hind foot, 
which, being shod with a low toe calk and high heel calk, will strike the 
ground before it reaches the fore foot. An interfering horse generally 
strikes with the inside of the hoof, about 2 inches from the toe ; there- 
fore make the shoe straighter on the inside, and rasp the hoof accord- 
ingly. 

Acute Pucumonia. 

They are first taken with a dry, depressed cough, loss of ai)petite, but 
thirsty ; pulse feeble, but frequently the extremities are cold — some- 
times when first taken^ at others they retain their natural heat until the 



54 THE HORSE. 

disease assumes its worst appearance, and then the legs become cold. 
Respiration is very active and laborious ; the animal pants all the time, 
stands with fore legs widely separated, never lies down, and is loath to 
move. Some discliarge copiously from both nostrils, a thick, slimy 
matter, sometimes mixed with blood — in that case the whole body is 
excessively hot, and the extremities also, but other symptoms the same. 
The treatment in the early stage of this disease should be : 1. An abun- 
dant supply of cool, fresh air. 2. Abstinence from grain or corn. 3. 
Extra clothing and warm bandages to the legs. In all cases it is desir- 
able that the patient should at once be removed to an airy, loose box. 
If these simple remedies do not bring about a subsidence of the attack 
within a short time, recourse must be had to medical treatment. 

Rupture. 

Rupture or hernia is the protrusion of a bowel, or some other part, 
from its proper cavity. It is sometimes congenital, and may then be re- 
duced at the same time that castration is performed. At other times 
rupture may be produced by blows, kicks or falls. A hernia is danger- 
ous to life when it becomes compressed or strangulated by a stricture 
at the orifice of protrusion. Skillful surgical aid should always be ob- 
tained in any such case at once. But sometimes, in the absence of a 
vetenarian, any one may restore the gut by introducing the hand into 
the bowel and drawing it up ; the other hand, at the same time, making 
gentle pressure upon the swelling in the abdomen No violence should 
ever be used in attempting this; and the bowels should first bo emptied 
by. a clyster. 

Strangrlcs. 

Feed with light, cooling (green if it can be had) food ; mix the food 
with sassafras tea, in which a spoonful of powdered sulphur and a tea- 
spoonful of saltpetre have been added. 

Stag-g^crs. 

This is a functional disorder of the brain, which, when once it has de- 
clared itself, is said to be beyond cure. The following prescription may 
be tried : Give a mess twice per week composed of 1 gal. of bran, 1 
tablespoonful of sulphur, 1 spoonful of saltpetre, 1 quart of boiling sas- 
safras tea, 1^ oz. assafoetida. Keep the horse from cold water for half 
a day afterwards 

Tbrusti. 

This a discharge of very offensive matter from the cleft of the frog. 
It is inflammation of the lower surface of the sensible frog, and during 
which pus is secreted together with, or instead of horn. In its treat- 



RECIPES. 5j 

ment, almost any astringent substance will check thrush in its early 
stage. Tar and common salt mixed is a very good application, and tar 
and sulphate of zinc can also be highly recommended. Before the in- 
troduction of either of these preparations, the frog should be carefully 
insjtected and all decayed parts removed. The dressing must be pressed 
to the bottom of the cleft and commissures of the frog, and this should 
be repeated every other day or twice a week. 

Water Farcin. 

Symptoms : The horse is dull and loses his appetite, and swells along 
the belly or chest and between the fore legs. To cure : Rowel in the 
breast, and along each side of the chest, as far as the swelling goes. 
Leave the rowels in until the swelhng goes down. Give a spoonful of 
cleansing powders morning and night. 

Stoppag:e of Urine, 

Symptoms : Frequent attempts to urinate, looking round at his sides, 
lying down, rolhng and stretching. To cure, take i lb. of hops, 3 drs. 
oil of camphor ; grind and mix. Make into 3 pills. Give 1 every day, 
with a drench made of a small spoonful of saltpetre and 2 oz. of water. 
This will cure, as a general thing. 

To Cure a Wen. 

Take equal parts of soft soap and slaked lime, well mixed. Lance 
the wen at the time of making the application, or two or three days 
after. Two or three applications will cure. 

To Improve W^ind in Horses. 

It will be found, if tar water and powdered charcoal are mixed with 
the horse's feed, that it will have a most beneficial effect on his wind and 
condition. 

Botts. 

Botts are the larvae of the gad fly, of which there are three different 
kinds. The female gad fly, during the summer months, deposits her ova 
on the horse's legs or sides, and they become firmly attached to the hair. 
After remaining on the leg for some time, perhaps 4 or 5 days, they be- 
come ripe, and at this time the slightest application of warmth and 
moisture is suflScient to bring forth the latent larva. At this period, if 
the tongue of the horse chances to touch the egg, its operculum is thrown 
open, and a small worm is produced, which readily adheres to the tongue, 
and with the food is conveyed into the stomach, and therein is lodged 
and hatched. It clings to the cuticular coat by means of its ternacula, 
between which is its mouth : and in such a firm manner does it adhere 



56 THE HORSE. 

to the lining of the stomach, that it will suffer its body to be pulled 
asunder without quitting its hold. Botts are often supposed to do a good 
deal of harm, but except in cases where they accumulate in very large 
numbers, we are of the opinion that they are almost harmless, because 
in ordinary cases they are chiefly attached to the cuticular coat, and the 
cuticular coat of the stomach is not possessed of a great degree of sensi- 
bility. Most horses that have been running at pasture during the sum- 
mer months become affected more or less with botts, and their presence 
in the stomach is thius accounted for. "Wlien a horse is troubled with 
the botts, is may be known by the occasional nipping at their own sides 
and by red pimples and projections on the inner surface of the upper 
lip, which may be seen plainly by turning up the lip. To remove them 
take of new milk 2 quarts, molasses 1 quart, and give the horse the 
whole amount. 15 minutes afterward give 2 quarts of very warm sage 
tea, and 30 minutes after the tea give 1 pint of linseed oil (or enough to 
operate as a physic). Lard has been used, when the oil could not be 
obtained, with the same success. The cure will be complete, as the 
milk and molasses cause the botts to let go their hold, the tea puckers 
them up, and the oil carries them entirely away. The spring is the only 
season in which there is a chance to effectually remove them. 
Inflainuiatiou of the Lung's. 
First bleed thoroughly, then give tinct. veratum veride, \ oz ; lauda- 
num, 4 oz ; tinct. aconite, ^ oz. Shake well, and give a tablespoon half 
full every three hours, in a pint of water well sweetened ; and if the 
pulse is not reduced in a short time, increase the dose to a spoonful 
until the fever abates. As soon as the horse recovers so as to eat and 
lie down naturally, keep him on hay alone, with a few carrots or pota- 
toes, and daily give a bran mash with saltpetre, crude antimony and 
sulphur, for a week or ten days, and you will prevent dropsy on tlio 
chest, which is a sequel of inflammation of the lungs. 
Colic in Horses. 

Sulph. ether, 1 pt., aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pt, sweet spirits 
nitre, 2 pts., opium, ^ lb., assafoetida (pure), ^ lb., camphor, -J- lb. Put 
in a large bottle and let stand from ten to fifteen days. Dose, 2 ounces 
eveiy two. three, or four hours, until the horse is relieved. This medi- 
cine is a sure cure for the worst form of flatulent colic, if lauen in 
time. It sliould be given in sweetened water. 



RULES AND REGULATIONS 

FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF 

TROTTING AND RACING 

OVER THE 

UNION COURSE, LONG ISLAND. 

The following are the Rules and Regulations for the government of all trotting and 
pacing matches to come off on the Union Course, Long Island : 

Kule 1 — Nature of Rules*— Ail matches or sweepstakes which shall come 
off over this course will be governed by these rules, unless the contrary is mutually 
agreed upon by the parties making such match or stake. 

2. Poiver of Poslponenieut.— In caseof unfavorable weather, or other un- 
avoidable cause, all purses, matches, sweepstakes announced to come off, to which the 
proprietors contribute, they shall have the iKJwer to postpone to a future day, upon 
giving notice of the same. 

3. Qualifications of Horses Startiug*.— Horses trained in the same 
stable, or owned in part by the same person, within three days, shall not start for a 
purse, and horses so entered shall forfeit their entrance. A horse starting alone 
shall receive but oae half of the purse. Horses deemed by the judges not fair trot- 
ting horses shall be ruled off previous to, or distanced at the termination of the heat. 

4. Entries,— All entries shall be made under a seal, inclosing the entrance money 
(ten per cent, on the purse), and addressed to the proprietor, at such time and place 
as may have been previously designated by advertisement. 

5. Weisrltt to be Carried,— Every trotting horse starting for match, purse 
or stake, shall carry one hundred and forty-five pounds ; if in harness, the weight of 
the sulky and harness not to be considered. Pacing horses liable to the same rule. 

6. Distances.— A distance for mile heats, best three in five, shall be one hun- 
dred yards ; for one mile heats, eighty yards ; and for every additional mile, an ad- 
ditional eighty yards. 

Time between Heats.— The time between heats shall be, for one mile, 
twenty minutes : for every additional mile, an additional five minutes. 

8. Power of Judg-es.— There shall be chosen by the proprietors of the course, 
or stewards, three judges to preside over a race for purses, and by them an additional 
judge shall be appointed for the distance stand ; they may, also, during or previous 
to a race, appoint inspectors at any part of the course, whose reports, and theirs 
alone, shall be received of any foul riding or driving. 

9. difference of Opinion bctw^eeu Judsres.— Should a difference of 
opinion exist between the judges in the starting stand on any question, a majority 
shall govern. 

10. Judsres' Duties.— The judges shall order the horses saddled or harnessed 
five minutes previous to the time appointed for starting ; any rider or driver causing 
undue detention after being called up, by making false starts or otherwise, the 
judges may give the word to start without reference to the situation of the horse so 
offending, unless convinced such delay is unavoidable on the part of the rider or 
driver, in which case not more than thirty minutes shall be consumed in attempting 
to start ; and at the expiration of that time, the horse or horses ready to start shall 
receive the word. 

11. Ntartin^r Horses.— The pole shall be drawn for by the judges; the horse 
winning a heat shall, for the succeeding heats, bo entitled to a choice of the track ; 
on coming out on the last stretch each horse shall retain the track tirst selected : any 
horse deviating shall be distanced. 

12 Riders or Drivers,- Riders or drivers shall not be permitted to start ua* 
less dressed in jockey style. 

(57) 



58 RVLES AhD EEGVLATIONS OF IHE VyiON COURSE. 

Weight of Itiders and Drivers.— Riders and drivers shall weigh in the 
presence of one or more of the judges previous to starting ; and after a heat, are to 
come up to tlie starting-stand, and not dismount until so ordered by the judges ; any 
rider or driver distibeying shall, on weighing, be precluded from the benefit of the 
weight of his saddle and whip, and if not full weight, shall be distanced. 

14. Penalty for Foul Riding or Ifriviiigr.— A rider or driver commit- 
ting any act which the judges may deem foul riding or driving, shall be distanced. 

15. Horse Breakingr.— Should any horse break from his trot or pace, ir shall 
be the duty of the rider or driver to pull his horse to a tiot or pace immedia:ely. and 
in case of the rider or driver refuse to do so, the penalty shall be that the next best 
horse shall have the heat; it the rider or driver should comply with the above, and 
he should gain by such break, twice the distance so gained shall be taken away on 
the coming out ; a horse breaking on the score shall not lose the heat by eo doing. 

16. Tlic Wiiiiiiiit; Horse.— A horse must win two heats to beentitled to the 
purse, unless he distance all other horses in one heat. A distanced horse in a dead 
heat shall not start again. 

17. Kelalive to Heats.— A horse not winning one heat in three shall not start 
for a fourth heat, unless such horse shall have made a dead heat. When a dead heat 
is made betwen two horses, that if either had won the heat, the race would have been 
decided, they two only shall start again ; in races best three in five, a horse shall win 
one heat in five to be allowed to start for the sixth heat, unless such horse shall have 
made a dead heat ; such horses as are prevented from starting by this rule shall be 
considered drawn, and not distanced. 

18. On Heats and Distances.— If two horses each win a heat, and neither 
are distanced in the race, the one coming out ahead on the last heat to be considered 
the best. The same rule to be applied to horses neither winning a heat and neither 
diitanced. If one liorse wins a heat, he is better than one that does not, provided 
he does not get distanced in the race ; then the other, if not distanced, shall be best. 
A horse that wins a heat and is distanced is better than one not winning a heat and 
being distanced in the same heat. A horse distanced in the second heat is better than 
one distanced in the first heat. 

19. Horses Uraivn.— Horses drawn before the conclusion of a race shall be 
considered distanced. 

20. Outside Kets.— In all matches made play or pay; outside beta not to be 
considered play or pay, unless so understood by the parties. 

21. €>f I'lay or Pay ITIatclies.— All moneys bet on play or pay matches by 
outside betters are not considered play or pay. 

22. Betting'. — Absent Betters.— A confirmed bet cannot be let off without 
mutual consent. If either party be absent at the time of trotting, and the money 
be not staked, the party present may declare the bet void in the presence of the judges, 
unless some party will stake the money betted for the absentee 

23. Compromised Itlatclies.— All bets made by outside betters on compro- 
mised matches are considered drawn. 

24. Betters of Odds, etc.— The person who betts the odds has a right to choose 
the horse or the field. When he has chosen his horse the field is what starts agaiist 
liim ; but there is no field unless one starts with him. If odds are bet without nam- 
ing the hoi-ses before the trot is over, it must be determined as the odds were at time 
of making it. Bets made in trotting are not determined till the purse is won, if the 
heat is not specified at the time of betting. 

2.5. Horses r.xcluded from Startingror Distanced. -All bets made 
on horses precluded from starting (by Kule 19), being distanced in the race, or on 
such horses against each other, shall be drawn. 

26. In erases of Dispute and Improper Conduct.— Tn all cases of 
dispute not provided for by the Rules, the judges for the day will decide finally. In 
case of a trot or match being proved to their satifaostion to have been made or con- 
ducted improperly or di.shoncstly on the part of the principals, they shall have the 
power to declare all beta void. 



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to presents ; The proposal ; Mode of refusal wlien not approved ; Conduct to be 
observed by a rejected suitor ; Refusal by the lady's parents or guardians ; Eti- 
quette of an engagement ; Demeanor of the betrothed pair; Should a courtship be 
long or short ; Preliminary etiquette of a wedding ; Fixing the day ; How to be 
married; The trosseau ; Duties to be attended to by the bridegroom , Who should 
"be asked to the wedding ; Duties of the bridesmaids and bridegroomsmen ; Eti- 
quette of a wedding ; Costume of bride, bridesmaids, and bridegroom ; Arrival at 
the church ; The marriage ceremonial ; Registry of the marriage ; Return home, 
and wedding breakfast ; Departure for the honeymoon ; Wedding cards ; Modem 
practice of *' No Cards ; " Reception and return of wedding visits ; Practical advice 
to a newly married couple. Mailed for 15 cents. 

How to Behave. — A Hand-Book of Etiquette and Guide to True 
Politeness. — Contents. — Etiquette and its uses ; Introductions ; Cutting acquaint- 
ances ; Letters of introduction ; Street etiquette ; Domestic etiquette and duties ; 
Visiting ; Receiving company ; Evening parties ; The lady's toilet ; The gentle- 
man's toilet ; 'Invitations; Etiquette of the ball-room ; General rules of conversa- 
tion ; Bashfulness, and how to overcome it ; Dinner parties; Table etiquette ; 
Carving ; Servants ; Travelling ; Visiting cards ; Letter-writing ; Conclusion. 
This is the best book of the kind yet published, and every person mshing to be con- 
sidered well-bred, who wishes to understand the customs of good society, and to 
avoid incorrect and vulgar habits, should send for a copy. Mailed for 15 
cents. 

The Model Letter-Writer. — A Comprehensive and Complete 

Guide and Assistant for those who desire to carry on epistolary correspondence— 
con;:aining instructions for writing Letters of Introduction ; Letters on Business ; 
Letters ot Recommendation ; Applications for Employment ; Letters of Congratu- 
lation ; Letters of Condolence ; Letters of Friendship and Relationship ; Love 
Letters; Notes of Invitation; Letters of Favor, of Advice, and of Eucuse, etc., 
etc., together with appropriate Answers to each. This is an invaluable book for 
those persons who have not had sufficient practice to enable them to write letters 
without great effort. Mailed for 15 cents. 

The Complete Fortune-Teller and Dream Book.— This 

book contains a complete Dictionary of Dreams, alphabetically arranged, with a 
clear interpretation of each dream, and the lucky numbers that belong to it. It 
includes Palmistry, or telling fortunes by the lines of the hand ; fortune-telling by 
the grounds in a tea or coffee cup ; how to read your future life by the white of an 
c^ ; tells how to know who your future husband will be, and how soon you will 
be married ; fortune-telling by cards ; Hymen's lottery ; good and bad omens, etc., 
etc. Mailed for 15 cents. 

The Lover's Companion. — A book no lover should be without. 

It gives Handkerchief, Parasol, Glove and Fan Flirtations; also. Window and 
DinintT-table Signalling ; The Language of Flowers ; How to kiss deliciouKly ; Lovo 
Letters, and how to write them, with specimens; Bashfulness and Timidity, and 
boy/ to overcome them, etc., etc. Mailed for 25 cents. 

Addicbs FRAI^K M. REED, 

139 Eigflith Street, New Vork. 



HEALTH HINTS. 



A new book showing how to Acquire and Retain Bodily Symmetry, Health, Vigor, 
and Beauty. Its contents are as follows : Laws of Beauty — Air, Sunshine, Water, 
and Food— Work and Rest— Dress and Ornament— The Hair and its Management- 
Skin and Complexion— the Mouth — The Eyes, Ears and Nose— The Neck, Hands, and 
Feet— Growth and Marks that are Enemies of Beauty— Cosmetics and Perfumery. 

Fat People.— It gives ample rules how Corpulency may be Cured— the Fat 
made Lean, Comely and Active. 

I^eau People,— It also gives directions, the following of which wiU enable 
Lean, Angular, Bony or Sharp Visaged People, to be Plump and Rosy Skinned. 

fSray Hair.— It tells how Gray Hair may be Restored to its natural color 
without the aid of Dyes, Restorers, or Pomades. 

Baldness.— It gives ample directions for Restorin;^ Hair on Bald Heads, as well 
as how to stop Falling of the Hair, how to Curl the Hair, etc. 

Beard, and iUustacbc.— II tells what Young Men should do to acquire a 
Fine Silky and Handsome Beard and Mustache. 

Freckles and Pimples.— It gives full directions for the Cure of Sunburn, 
Freckles, Pimples, Wrinkles, Warts, etc., so that they can be entirely removed. 

Cosmetics.— This chapter, among other things, gives an Analysis of Perry's 
Moth and Freckle Lotion, Balm of White Lilies, Hagan's Magnolia Bahn, Laird's 
Bloom of Youth, Phalon's Enamel, Clark's Restorative for the Hair, Chevalier's Life 
for the Hair, Ayer's Hair Vigor, Professor Wood's Hair Restorative, Hair Restorer 
America, Gray's Hair Restorative, Phalon's Vitalia, Ring's Vegetable Ambrosia, 
Mi-s. Allen's World's Hair Restorer, Hall's Vegetable Sicilian Hair Renewer, Martha 
Washmgton Hair Restorative, etc.. etc. (no room for more), showing how the lead, 
etc., in these mixtures cause disease and oftentimes premature death. Mailed for 
50 cents. 



Fbe mranaerement and Care of Infants and Chlldren.-By 

Geo Combe, M.D. This is the best book ever written on the subject, and is one that 
no mother of a family can afford to be without Its usual price in the book stores is 
*1.50, but it will be mailed— .'/t« West and most complete edition— tov only 75 cents. 

Addres.s FRAIVK M. RE£1>, 

139 £lglitli Street, New York. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



OLD SECRETS AND NETl 

Contaiuingr Information of Rare \ nj ^02 863 230 7 

all Conditions of biwt;at;i,y 




It tells all about Electrical Psychology, showing how you can bioldgize any person, 
and while under the influence he will do anything you may wkh him. no matter how 
ridiculous it may be, and he cannot help doing it ; also, how to mesmerize— & secret 
that has been sold over and over again for $10 ; how to make a person at a distance 
think of you, and how to charm those you meet and make them love you, whether 
they will or not. 

It tells how to make the wonderful Magic or Invisible Photographs and Spirit 
Pictures; the Eggs of Pharo's Serpents, which when lighted, though but the size of 
a pea, there issues from it a coiling serpent ; how to perform the Davenport Brothers' 
" Spirit Mysteries " ; how to copy any kind of di'awing or picture, and more wonder- 
ful still, to print pictures from the print itself ; how to r^ake g-old and silver from 
block-tiu (the least said about which, the better) ; also, how to take impressions from 
coins, and how to imitate gold and silver. 

It tells how to make a horse appear as though he was badly foundered; to 
make a horse temporarily lame ; how to make him stand by bis food and not eat it ; 
how to cure a. horse from the crib or sucking wind ; how to put a young countenance 
on the horse ; how to cover up the heaves ; how to make him apjKjaras if he had the 
glanders ; how to make a true-pulling horse baulk ; how to nerve a horse that is 
lame, etc., etc. These horse secrets are being continually sold at one dollar each. 

It tells how to make a cheap Galvanic Battery ; how to plate and gild without a 
battery ; how to mrikc a candle burn all night ; how to make a clock for 25 cents ; 
how to detect counterfeit money ; how to banish and prevent mosquitoes from 
biting ; how to make yellow butter in winter ; Circassian curling fluid ; Sympathetic 
or Secret Writing Ink; Colo;;no "Water; Artifioial honey; Stammering; how to 
make large noses small ; to cure drunkenness : to copy letters without a press ; to 
obtain fresh blown flowers in winter : to make a pood burning candle from lard ; 
and score.s of other wonderful things for which there is no room to mention. " OUl 
Secrets and A>w Discoveries " is worth $5 to any person, but it will be mailed to any 
address on receipt of only 50 cents. 

Address FRAIVK M. REED, 

139 KigrhtU Street, New Vork. 



